





LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Chap. Copyright No.. 

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 






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2nd COPY, 




WORKS OF 
PROFESSOR ALFRED G, COMPTON 



PUBLISHED BY 



JOHN WILEY & SONS. 



Manual of Logarithmic Computations. 

With numerous examples, being introductory to 
the Study of Logarithms. i2mo, cloth, $1.50. 

First Le55ons in Metal Working. 

i2mo, cloth, $1.50. 

The Speed-lathe. 

Being Part I of Advanced Metal Work. i2mo, 
cloth. 



ADVANCED METAL-WORK. 

LESSONS ON THE SPEED-LATHE, ENGINE- 
LATHE, AND PLANING-MACHINE. 



FOB THE USE OF TECHNICAL SCHOOLS, 

MANUAL-TRAINING SCHOOLS, 

AND AMATEURS. 



IN THREE PARTS. 

PART I. THE SPEED-LATHE. 



BY 

ALFRED G. COMPTON 

AND 

JAMES H. DE &ROODT. 



FIRST EDITION. 

FIRST THOUSAND. 



NEW YORK: 

JOHN WILEY & SONS. 

London: CHAPMAN & HALL, Limited, 

1898, 



nr 






213 



Copyright, 1898, 

BY 

A. G. COMPTON AND J. H. DE GROODT. 



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ROBBBT DBTTMMONn, PRINTER, NEW YORK, 






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PREFACE. 



The lessons in lathe- work and planer-work here 
set forth represent pretty closely the course of 
instruction in this subject which an experience of 
thirteen years has developed in the College of the 
City of New York. The mechanical course in 
this college is a ^ve years' course (including a 
preparatory or sub-freshman year), collegiate in 
character, like the other courses, and leading to 
the degree of Bachelor of Sciences. To the work- 
shop and the laboratory is given an average of 
four hours a week throughout the five years. 
These lessons represent the work of the sopho- 
more year, four hours a week, and the junior year, 
three hours a week, or, deducting holidays, about 
two hundred and thirty-eight hours in all. The 
greater part of the exercises, except those expressly 
described as extra tasks given for the purpose of 
imparting facility, are performed by all the stu- 
dents of the class,* though a few are divided 
among them in such a way that some perform one 

* la Part I, exercises 14, 15, and 36 to 39 are such. 

iU 



iv PBEFAGE, 

exercise or one part of an exercise, while others 
are jDerforming another, all the operations, how- 
ever, being, in such cases, watched and under- 
stood by all. The lessons represent, therefore, 
about what a student who has had good training 
in mathematics and drawing and in elementary 
wood-work and metal-woik may be expected to 
do in the time named. 

While these lessons are not intended to dis- 
pense with the watchful eye and the helpful hand 
of an instructor, they are designed to fuinish to 
the student such explicit directions that he shall 
be able, in most cases, to do the work well if he 
will follow the directions exactly. The authors 
believe that the mechanical skill alone which a 
course of manual training imparts is only a part^ 
and not even the most valuable part, of the train- 
ing which the workshop and laboratory can give : 
the power of intelligent reading and of accurate 
and orderly description is equally important, and 
so is the power of foreseeing the difficulties that 
will arise in the course of a given operation and 
of devising means to evade or overcome them. 
These powers it is ho^^ed that these lessons may 
help to impart. 

The College of the City of New York, 
August 8th, 1898. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

Preface iii 

LESSON 

I, Parts of the Lathe. Care and Management of 

THE Lathe and Tools 1 

II. Starting and Stopping. Calculating the Speed.. 10 

III. Centring and Mounting Work. Plain Turning 

with the Gouge 14 

IV. Turning Concave and Convex Surfaces with the 

Chisel 23 

y . Chuck work • • 32 

VI. Pattern-making 43 

VII. Brass turning 58 

VIII. Wood-turning. Gouge-work , 90 

IX. Oval Turning 98 

X. Metal-spinning and Burnishing 102 

XI. Special Tools and Appliances 108 

XII. Underhand Cutting with the Gouge 113 

XIII. The Compound Best 123 

Alphabetical Index 131 

V 



ADYANCED METAL-WORK. 



PART I. 

THE SPEED-LA THE, 



LESSON I. 

PAKTS OF THE LATHE. CAEE AND MANAGEMENT 
OF THE LATHE AND TOOLS. 

As you stand facing the lathe you have at the 
left (Fig. 1) the head-stock ^, with the belt running 
on the cone, B^ giving motion to the 

T 'n^vT-iT^ 1 • 1 Parts of lathe. 

live-spindle C. 1)1) are bearings and 
journals of the live-spindle, and F is the spur- 
centre. At your right is the tail-stock G^ with the 
dead-spindle H^ the tail-pin I^ and the handle J of 
the spindle-screw, which moves the dead-spindle in 
or out. Between the head-stock and the tail-stock 
is the hand-rest, on which the cutting-tool rests. 
All these parts are fastened to the shears X, which 
are the straight and parallel guides, on the bed M. 
To these shears the head-stock is clamped by bolts 



THE 8PEED-LATEB. 



0, holding it fixed, while the tail-stock and hand- 
rest are fastened by clamps P, which can be easily 




loosened, allowing these parts to be placed at 
pleasure. 



CABE AND MANAGEMENT OP THE LATHE. 3 

All parts of the lathe, but especially the bright 
parts, should be wiped off clean after using. 
Tools, pieces of metal and work should never be 
laid on the shears, lest these be thus bruised or 
nicked. 

The belt must be kept straight and free 
from twist to insure its running well. To this 
end, at the close of the day's work care of the 
it should be carefully folded and ^®i*- 
wrapped around the head-stock in such a way 
as to keep it ;flat. When in use it is found 
to run best with the smooth side towards the face 
of the cone or pulley. The smooth side is the side 
on which the hair was. In the process of tanning 
the skin and removing the hair, and thus converting 
the skin into leather, the oily substance at the root 
of each hair is destroyed, leaving in this smooth-fin- 
ished side numberless little cavities or holes. If this 
side, which is also the weaker, is turned toward the 
face of the cone or pulley, as at a, Fig. 2, these 
pores or cracks are closed ; thus a better contact is 
insured, with greater friction, the belt is more 
easily curved around a small pulley and made to 
touch its whole width, and it Avill transmit more 
power before slipping. With the rough or flesh 
side of the belt towards the pulley, as at h, the 
reverse is true : the cracks tend to open more and 
more, weakening the belt and finally breaking it. 

Above the lathe is a counter-shaft which receives 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



motion from the main shaft. On the main shaft is 
fixed a pulley, and on the counter-shaft are two, 
each of half the width of this one. Examining 





Shafts and 
pulleys. 



Fig. 2. 

either the counter-shaft overhead or a similar one 
mounted as a model in a convenient place, you will 
find that one of the two pulleys is firmly attached 
to the counter-shaft by a set-screw, while the other 
is loose, so that if the belt from the 
main shaft to the counter-shaft is on 
the fast or tight pulley it will drive the 
counter- shaft, while if it is on the loose pulley it 
will leave the counter-shaft at rest. 

Notice the cones and the small pulleys on your 
lathe and counter-shaft and you will find them 
"crowned," or the surfaces high in the middle. 
When a pulley revolves the centrifugal force tends 
to throw out anything that is on it, as you have 
already observed in oiling your machine. Thus 
the belt also as it revolves creeps up from a small 
diameter to a larger one. When the surface of a 
pulley or cone is made curved or high in the mid- 



CARS AND MANAGEMENT OF THE LATHE. 



die, each half of the belt tends to climb towards 
the high side, just as two belts running side by 
side would, thus keeping the belt at the middle of 
the pulley. Pulleys used for shifting belts (gen- 
erally the driving-pulleys) have flat faces, while 
those used as driven pulleys, such as the " cones " 
of lathes, have crowned or curved faces. The 
" crowning " of pulleys is theoretically wrong, since 
it prevents the belt from pressing equally on all 
parts of the surface, and it would not be necessary 
if the shaft could be kept perfectly in line and the 
belts were perfect. 

Both centres are frequently removed from the 
spindles. The live-spindle often has a hole 
bored throusrh its whole lensrth, and in 

T . M Exercise 1. 

this case the centre is easily removed Removing 
by passing through the hole a piece of ^^^ repiac- 
round iron and driving the centre out *"^ ^^^ ^^^' 
by gentle blows of the hammer. The dead- 
centre or tail-centre is sometimes removed by 
the action of the tail- 
screw. When the screw is 
turned so as to draw back 
the spindle in which the 
dead-centre is inserted, the 
point of the screw comes 
in contact with the base of the centre and 
pushes it out. Both in this case and in the last, 
the base of the centre being subjected to frequent 




Fig. 3. 



6 THE 8PEED-LAT3E. 

pressure or blows, it is likely to become upset or 
enlarged. It should therefore be turned for a 
small part of its length, not exceeding \ in. at 
the end, a little smaller, so that if it is thus enlarged 
it may not fit too tight and thus score or scratch 
the inside of the spindle. 

The dead-centre has in some cases a hole drilled 
through it perpendicular to its axis into which a 
steel pin can be inserted. It is then easily re- 
moved by turning it by means of the pin. When 
no special provision is made for removing the 
centre, whether live or dead, a copper hammer 
(not a steel one) should be held under it, and 
then with a hammer and drift or dull chisel it 
should be jarred loose by gentle taps against its 
shoulder. 

There is but one correct way of inserting a cen- 
tre in its spindle. First see that the centre and 
the hole in the spindle are perfectly clean, and if 
there are any nicks or scratches, even slight ones, 
remove them with an old smooth file. Put the 
centre into the hole and push and turn it in 
its place, but never drive it. Driving the centre 
is apt to make it hold so tight that blows 
are required to remove it, and both actions are 
likely to injure the lathe. A chalk-line drawn 
along the whole length of the centre will gener- 
ally keep it from slipping ; if it does not the 
fit is imperfect, and it should be refitted as 



CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF THE LATHE, 7 

will be explained in Lesson VII on Engine-lathe 
Work. 

To prevent injury to the dead-spindle it 
should not be allowed to project beyond the tail- 
stock farther than is necessary to allow Exercise 2 
of getting at the work easily. To set Setting the 
the tail-stock properly, screw the spin- *^*^-s*°^^- 
die as far back as it will go, and move the 
stock up till the dead-centre touches the work as 
you hold it between the centres with your left 
hand ; now screw the spindle out, and the centre, 
pressing against the work, will push the stock 
back along the shears ; let the stock go back thus 
till you have room enough to allow of taking the 
work out and putting it back easily, and fasten 
the stock with the clamp-screw. 

The spindle slides in a smooth hole in the tail- 
stock and is kept from turning by means of a 




Fig. 4. 



spline or groove cut in one side, into which a 
feather or pin is fitted. To move this spindle 



8 THE SPEED-LATHE. 

there is a screw whicli revolves in the stocks. It 
is supported and held in place by a beariog B, 
screwed fast to the end of the tail-stock. This 
screw turns in a corresponding brass nut C in one 
end of the spindle, which is made hollow and has 
a conical or taper hole in one end for the insertion 
of the dead-centre, and a long cylindrical hole in 
the other end for the admission of the screw. 

The thread on the screw may be either right- or 
left-handed, the latter being preferable, however, 
for the reason that it is natural for the majority of 
workmen to turn the screw towards the right to 
move the spindle forward ; as the screw turns it is 
evident that if it is a left-handed one the nut 
must move forward on the screw, whereas if it 
were right-handed the reverse would happen, the 
spindle would be drawn backward and the work 
loosened between centres. In some lathes, how- 
ever, the right-handed screw is used, perhaps be- 
cause of a slight difference in cost. Besides being 
left-handed the screw should have a double thread, 
which would move the centre twice as far for the 
same number of turns of the handle as a single 
thread would, without materially weakening the 
screw. As the standard angle of a V thread is 60 
degrees and the depth of an ordinary square one is 
about equal to its width, it is evident that if the 
pitch is a coarse one the thread will be corre- 
spondingly deep. For example, if it is desired to 



CARE AND MANAGEMENT OF THE LATHE. 9 

cut a thread that will move the spindle \ of an 
inch for ever)' turn of the handle, and the diame- 
ter of the screw is only half an inch, a single 
thread having a pitch of \ in. will reduce the di- 
ameter of the core or bottom of the thread to \ 




K.,.^__ 



Fig. 5. 



of an inch, w^hich is too small for practical use, 
whereas with a double thread of the same pitch 
the strength is that of a thread of ^ inch pitch, as 
shown in the figure. The workman must make 
many turns of the screw during the day, and a 
saving of one half the number is not to be de- 
spised. 



10 THE 8PEEB-LATEE. 



LESSON 11. 

STARTII^G AND STOPPING. CALCULATINa THE SPEED. 

In starting the lathe the belt should be run 
gradually, not suddenly, from the loose to the 
tight pulley. If it is shifted too 
Exercise 3. quickly it will slip on the tight pul- 
ley before the lathe gets into motion, 
or, which is more troublesome, will run off the 
pulley altogether. 

To increase the speed of the live-spindle the 
lathe-belt is shifted from a smaller to a laro^er 
step on the counter-shaft, which 
Exercise 4. causes the belt to run faster, and 
^gj^^ from a larger to a smaller step on the 

lathe-cone. The latter change of course 
must be made first. To lessen the speed the op- 
posite changes must be made. Practise the two 
changes successively. 

First, to increase the speed : Holding the left 
hand against the left edge of the belt about one 
foot above the head-stock, push the belt with the 
right hand so as to guide it off from the large step 
of the cone to the small one. (The holding of the 
left hand as directed has for its object to prevent 



STARTING AND STOPPING. SPEED. 11 

the belt from being pushed too far to the left, 
which in the case of the engine-lathe might cause 
it to be caught in the gear-wheel and injured. 
Though this danger does not exist in the case of 
the speed-lathe, it is important to form the correct 
habit in the beginuing.) The belt is now slack, 
being on the small step both of the counter-shaft 
and of the lathe-cone. It is now to be shifted to 
the larger step of the cone on the counter-shaft. 
To accomplish this pull the belt forward with 
the palm of the left hand, stretching it a little. 
Removing this hand quickly, you will allow the 
belt to spriug back by its elasticity, and at this 
moment, giving it a push or throw with the right 
hand, you will guide it on to the larger step on 
the cone of the counter-shaft. It will require some 
practice to get facility in this movement. The 
reverse operation, first on the counter-shaft and 
then on the cone, will reduce the speed. 

Measure the diameters, first, of the driving- 
pulley of the engine and the driven pulley on 
the main shaft ; second, of the driving- Exercise 5. 
pulley on the main shaft and the Calculating 
driven pulley on the counter-shaft; *^®sp®®^" 
third, of the several steps of the driving-cone 
on the counter-shaft and the corresponding steps 
on the lathe-cone. Then, counting the number of 
revolutions per minute of the engine, either by the 
eye or by the ear, or by a so-called tachometer or 



12 THE SPEED-LATHE. 

speed-counter, determine : first, the speed of tlie 
shaft ; second, that of the counter-shaft ; third, that 
of the spindle with the belt on each of the several 
steps of the cones. After your calculations are 
completed you may verify them by taking the 
speeds of the shaft, counter-shaft, and cone with 
the tachometer. 

The measured and the calculated results should 
nearly agree. They will not agree exactly, first, 
because of small errors in the measurements of the 
several diameters, and second, because the belts 
always slip to some extent on the pulleys, making 
the driven pulley run less rapidly than the calcu- 
lation would indicate. 

In order to be perfectly accurate in calculating 
speeds the diameter of a pulley should always be 
measured so as to include one half the thickness of 
the belt which is around the pulley or cone. The 
diameter of the pulley plus one thickness of the 
belt will give the correct result. Some fast-run- 
ning machines, such as circular saws, emery-wheels, 
engine-governors, etc., etc., have the speed at which 
they should be run stamped on the machine in 
plain sight. Now, knowing the desired speed of 
the machine and the speed of the engine, it is 
very easy to calculate the sizes of the pulleys 
needed. When the thickness of the belt is added 
to each j)ulley, as, for instance, \" to the 8" pulley 
on the main shaft and the same (J") to the pulley 



STARTING AND STOPPING. SPEED. 13 

on the counter-shaft, the proportion is changed : 
the driving-pulley would now be 8^" instead of 
8", and the driven pulley 4^" instead of 4". One 
pulley would now be i|- of the other, and not |, 
or 1^1^, which would make on a machine at a speed 
of 500 revolutions, a difference of about 9 revolu- 
tions per minute. 



14 THE SPEED-LATHE. 



LESSON III. 

CENTEING AND MOUNTINa WOEK. PLAIN TURNING 
WITH THE GOUGE. 

Cut off a piece of white pine 8" long and 
2 J" square. Find tlie centre of each end by the 
intersection of two diagonals, and 
Exercise 6. niark the centres with a centre-punch 
mount^g^^ or with the lathe-centre, using a cop- 
per hammer. From this piece turn 
a cylinder 2" in diameter by the eye. 

You should have in the drawer of your lathe 
five tools : two gouges, large and small ; two 
chisels, large and small ; and a square-nose or part- 
ing tool. Place these tools on your lathe-bench in 
front of you, at right angles to the length of the 
lathe, with their handles under the bed of the lathe 
and their cutting edges far enough out to be seen as 
you stand at the lathe, so that you can always pick 
up the right tool without loss of time or risk of 
cutting your hand. 

To mount the work, feed the tail-spindle back by 
turning the screw as far as it will go ; hold the 
work in the left hand, with one end held up to the 



PLAIN TURNING WITH THE QOJJGB. 15 

live-centre, and move tlie tail-stock up to it till 
tlie tail-centre enters the centre at the other end 
of the piece and holds it loosely. Now, before 
fastening the tail-stock, turn the centre-screw 
so as to push the centre forward against the work, 
thus pushing the tail-stock back, till there is room 
enough to allow of removing the work by screwing 
the centre back without moving the stock, and not 
much more. If the spindle projects further than 
is necessary it will bend or " spring," and cause the 
work to chatter and turn rough. Clamp the tail- 
stock fast. 

The gouge and chisel are very much like the cor- 
responding carpenter's tools except in length and 
in the form of their cutting edges. The Turning- 
wood-turner's tools and their handles tools, 
are longer than those of the carpenter's to allow 
the workmen to stand away from the dust and 
shavings made by the lathe. The wood-turner's 
tools are bevelled differently from those of the car- 
penter: the bevel of the gouge is on the convex 
side (Fig. 6, ^), while that of the carpenter's par- 
ing-gouge is on the concave side (Fig. 6, ^), and 
the turner's chisel is bevelled on both sides. The 
edge also is differently shaped : that of the car- 
penter's gouge is in a plane perpendicular to the 
length, while that of the turner's gouge is curved 
out of this plane, so that the latter is analogous to 
the jack-plane and cuts a groove or trough, while 



16 



TEE 8PEEDLATHE. 



the former is like the snioothing-plane and would 
cut a more nearly plane surface. The cutting edge 



B 



Fig. 6. 



of the turner's chisel is inclined to the axis of the 
tool at an angle of about 60° instead of being per- 
pendicular to it, as in the carpenter's chisel. The 
size of the cuttino; anoxic in either of the tools 
depends on the kind of wood to be worked, and 
may be about the same as in the carpenter's tools. 



PLAIN TURNING WITH THE GOUGE. 



11 



The piece of work being mounted between the 
centres, see that the centre is oiled and that there 
is no side-play between the centres. 
At the same time the piece must be ^^®^*^*s® '^■ 

., . Plain turning. 

free to turn easily. Any excess of pres- 
sure will cause undue friction on the shoulders of 
the journal and face of the bearings, with heating 




and rapid 

about J" from 
when the 
the cutting 
the centre, 
perpendicu- 
w o r k (as 
obliquely (as 
position you 
the flying 
with its edge 



Fig. 7. 



wear. Set the rest 
the work and so that 
gouge lies on the rest 
edge shall be above 
Do not hold the gouge 
lar to the length of the 
shown in Fig. 7), but 
in Fig. 8). In this 
can stand clear of all 
chips. Lay the gouge 
on the rest, the handle 



swung well over towards the right, the concavity 
facing towards the left. Bring the cutting edge 
carefully against the piece near the right-hand 
end and move it along steadily from right to 



18 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



left, taking off about the same quantity all along 
the length of the piece. Cany the gouge back to 
the right-hand end and repeat the operation. 

You can cut from left to right in the same way, 
swinging the handle towards the left, keeping the 




concave side 
to the right, 
ling it from 
hand to t h e 
Kun at a 
speed, in this 
lowest that the 
give, and, slid- 
along steadily 
to right, take 



Fig. 8. 



of the tool 
and propel- 
the left 
right hand, 
moderate 
case the 
cone wnll 
ing the tool 
from left 
successive 



cuts till the corners are all turned off and the 
piece is approximately cylindrical. 

The first cut ]gQust be made cautiously, as, while 
the piece is square or nearly so, there is danger, 
if you cut too deep, of having the tool caught by 
the work and perhaps jerked out of your hand. 



PLAIN TTTRNING WITH THE GOUOE. 19 

In turning large, lieav}^ work, and any work while 
taking off the corners, it is well to hold the han- 
dle of the gouge firmly against your side. You 
must stop occasionally and test the work, and take 
up any play which may have resulted from the 
w^earing away or compression of the wood at 
the centres. If this last point is not attended to 
the work will get loose in the centres and will not 
be turned true, or it may even fall out. After you 
have become a little accustomed to the handling 
of the tool you should keep your eye on the work 
rather than on the cutting edge of the tool — just 
as you do in chipping metal or chiselling wood. 

As in forge-work, so in wood-turning you must 
learn to work by eye measurement. Turn the 
piece down to as near 2'^ as you can by eye before 
using the calipers. Then face off the end with 
the chisel, holding it flat on the rest, perpen- 
dicular to the axis of the piece, and with the long 
side towards the piece. Push the chisel down 
towards the centre, cutting off enough to make the 
work run true. We now call the work approxi-' 
mately true and balanced, and it will now be safe 
to change to a higher speed before finishing. 

A point of the utmost importance in turning is 
to use only properly ground and sharpened tools. 
It will be worth while to try for once to work 
with improperly ground tools, so as to impress this 
thoroughly on your mind. After such experiments 



20 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



you will not be likely to work with bad tools in 
the mistaken idea tliat in sharpening them you are 
losing time. 

When your work is true and pai'allel finish it 
smooth with the chisel. The chisel, like the smooth- 
ing-plane in carpentry and the flatter 



Chisel. 



in forge-work, is only a finishing-tool. All work 




Fm. 9. 



should be prepared and brought near to a finish 
with the gouge, after which the chisel, if in proper 
condition and properly used, will finish the work 
better than you can do it with sandpaper. The 



PLAIN TURNING WITH THE OOXTGE. 21 

cMsel is held in about tlie same position as the 
gouge, with the whole of the bevelled surface 
bearing on the work, as in Fig. 9. In this position 
it will cut and polish at the s.ame time. The short 
side should lie on the rest, the long side or acute 
angle being turned towards the right, and the 
handle swung horizontally to the right. All 
these points are shown in the figure. Give care- 
ful attention to them, for if the chisel is held thus, 
and firmly, it will not slip and dig iuto the work. 

Practise with these two tools till you are able 
to turn very near to size, smooth and parallel, with 
the eye alone, Avithout the calipers. 

From the pieces of work left in the last exer- 
cises turn a taper plug to dimensions fixed in a 
sketch in advance, say 8" long, and 2" Exercise 8. 

. Taper turn- 

and 1 m diameter at the ends. ing. 

First lay the gouge with its edge on the tee of 
the rest, with the handle in the right hand swung 
well over towards the left, and the concavity fac- 
ing towards the right. 

Bring the cutting edge carefully against the 
piece at A^ Fig. 10, about V from the tail-centre 
end, and move it along steadily from left to right. 
Carry the gouge back again and takeanotlier cut; 
repeat the operation till the piece of work for 
about I" of its length is turned to the smallest 
diameter. Now in the same manner turn the taper 
straight and true, commencing first at J3, then Cy 



22 



THE 8PEBDLATHE. 



D, etc., taking successive cuts downwards from 
tlie larger to the smaller diameter. Finish the 




Fig. 10. 



surface smooth with the chisel, as in the last 
exercise. 



TUBNING CONCAVE AND CONVEX 8UBFACE8. 23 



LESSON IV. 



TUENING CONCAVE AND CONVEX SURFACES WITH 

THE CHISEL. 

Cut off a piece of pine or white wood 8" x 
2|^" X 2y and turn to tlie shape and size indicated 
in the figure. 




Fig. 11. 

First turn to a true cy linden Mark off the 
spaces with a lead-pencil while the piece is at rest, 
then start the lathe and mark with the Exercise 9. 
acute corner of the chisel, insertinsr ^^^^^^^^^^^ 

^ "-' curved sur- 

the point well into the work at the faces to pat- 
junctions of the convex surfaces or *®^"- 
beads and ribs a, a, A very light cut must be 
made at ^, h, the boundaries of the concave sur- 
faces, as these are not to be cut down at the ends. 
Turn the beads, ribs, and fillets with the chisel 



24 



THE SPEED-LATHE, 



alone. (The gonge is not to be used, as the object 
of the lesson is to attain skill in the use of the 
cnisel. After this is accomplished it will be found 
that better work can be done than with the gouge 
and more quickly.) In doing this you will appre- 
ciate the advantage of having learned to work 
with your eye fixed on the surface to be cut rather 
than on the cutting-tool. The convex surfaces 
and the concave surfaces will have to be treated 
differently. 

To cut the convex surface or bead or rib, place 
the chisel nearly flat on the tee of the rest, as 




~~~^ I. .*'- -'%. jk 




Fig. 12. 



in Fig. 1 2, the handle swung round to the left and 
the long edge hg a little raised, so that the tool rests 



TURNING CONCAVE AND CONVEX SURFACES. 25 

on the short edge af. In this position advance it 
till the heel d just touches the ^vork at c, the 
middle of the bead A, Fig. 11. Turn the chisel 
gradually up on the short edge af until its plane 
or face /^ is nearly vertical, and at the same time 
swing the handle to the right and upward, which 




Fm. 13. 



will cause the cutting edge to move along the 
work to the left and downward, as shown in Fig. 

13. 

The other half ce of the bead is cut by similar 

but reverse motions. That is, you will stand in 
the same position, but with the handle of the tool 
(in the same hand) swung round to the right in- 
stead of the left (Fig. 14). The long edge hg 



26 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



will be to the left and slightly raised, while the 
chisel lies nearly but not quite fiat, resting on the 
short edge a'f'j Fig. 12. Then turn the chisel 
gradually up round this edge as before, swinging 
the handle at 
the same time 
towards the 
left and up- 
ward, making 
the heel of 
the tool move 
toward the 
right and 
downward, 
till it takes again 
shown in Fig. 13. 

While cutting from left to right 
do not change hands, but learn to 
hold the handle of the tool in the 
right hand and the blade always in 
the left. The importance of this will be appre- 
ciated in underhand cutting later. It is obvious 
that while holding the blade in your right hand 
that hand is not free to attend to the dead-centre 
or to pick up a pair of calipers, or the rule, or the 
model, without moving the tool from the rest, in 
doing which it is apt to become nicked. 

To cut the hollow B^ Fig. 11, again use the 
chisel alone, but begin near h, and cut the part hi 




position 



Fig. 14. 



TURNING CONCAVE AND CONVEX SURFACES. 27 



then at h' to cut bl. For the first, begin with 
the chisel resting on the short edge or right= 
hand corner af^ the longitudinal plane through 
the cutting edge nearly vertical, as in Fig. 15, 



c eceh I }> 

V 1 t A ^ v' V 

III I I • I 



b I b 




r^O 



.LA_A^ 



Fig. 15. 

but inclined over a little towards the right, and 
the handle swung round towards the left. As 
the tool cuts, tui'u the cutting edge more and 
more from the vertical towards the right, and 
swing the handle toward the right and up, so 
that by the time the point I is reached, the 
handle of the chisel shall be nearly perpendicular 



28 



THE SPEED-LATHE, 



to the work, as in Fig. 16. In cutting h'l the 
plane of the edge of the chisel inclines increas- 
ingly towards the left, and the handle, which 
is swung far to the right in the beginning, is 



! I 1 1 I II 

> '■ ! I Mill 



I I 



I I 



iSrN .^\ V'--^^,K.K>, 





Fig. 16. 

brought more and more nearly perpendicular, 
being raised a little at the same time. In finish- 
ing up remove the ridge that will form in the 
middle by going over the surfaces lightly with 
the middle part of the edge (and not with the heel) 
passing a little beyond the centre of the fillet, 



TURNING CONCAVE AND CONVEX SURFACES- 29 

Care must be taken to have the two quadrants of 
the bead and the two half curves of the fillet ex- 
actly alike and symmetrical. Your ability to do 
good work on this exercise depends upon having 
sharp and properly ground tools. The heel does 
the cutting, while the surface following guides 
and polishes. 

If you can succeed in catching these motions 
you will be able to take off the wood with a cut- 
ting rather than a scraping motion and will leave 
the surface smooth. 

In turning the curved surfaces of the bead and 
the hollow the heel or obtuse corner of the chisel 
is the cutting one, while in turning down a side 
face it is the acute angle that is used, tilted a 




Fig. 17. 



This angle is almost 



little as shown in Fig. 17. 

always used for cutting off and cutting down 

shoulders • but if used for finishing a straight or 



30 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



square surface it is apt to make the surface of the 
work wavy. 

For practice with the tools, and to train the 
eye and learn the behavior of different kinds of 
wood, repeat the last exercise with a piece of wal- 
nut or cherry. 

To turn a handle for a file or chisel, use the 

piece already used for Exercise 8 (a 

Exercise 10. taper plug). Work from a model, 

and copy by eye, using no measure- 



handle. 



ments. 



After your last exercise you will have little 
difficulty in finishing this all with the chisel. 
First mark oif the length of the f-3rrule a, the 
position of the curve ho and the length d, as in 



the fio-ure. 




Fig. 18. 



With the acute angle of the large chisel cut 
well down into the work at c and 4 slightly at «, 
and make only a light mark at b. Place the point 



TURNING CONCAVE AND CONVEX SURFACES. 31 

of the heel or obtuse angle of the chisel against 
the work at h, a little to the left of the mark, 
and cut out part of the fillet he down to the 
notch c. Next round off the end, cutting down 
to the notch c/, a task very much the same as 
that of turning the bead. When cutting from 
left to right do not change hands, but, as before, 
hold the handle in your right hand and the blade 
of the tool in your left, as when cutting from right 
to left. The reasons for this have been given 
before. Now with the heel placed to the left of 
c cut from left to right, shaping and connecting 
the two surfaces at c. 

It is possible to turn out a perfect form at once 
without these auxiliary cuts ; but it is better, at 
least at first, to divide the operations thus into 
parts. Make several of these cuts if necessary, 
and repeat the operation until the convex and con= 
cave surfaces are gradually brought down to the 
desired shape and proper dimensions. This will 
give more practice for the chisel and eye, which 
at this stage is very important. 

The small end is not to be finished, but left 
somewhat larger than is necessary, to be finished 
and fitted with a ferrule as a future exercise. 



32 THE SPEED-LATHE. 



LESSON V, 

CHUCK-WORK. 

It is required to turn a ring witli an external 
Exercise 11. diameter of 3" and a circular cross- 
A ring. scctiou of |^" diameter 

Glue together two pieces of pine each f " thick 
and ^\" square. Remove the live-centre and put 
a small piece of waste in the hole of the spindle 
to keep out the dust. Screw on the face-plate, 
iSrst cleaning thoroughly the threads of the spindle 
and the plate. The plate should run on with 
perfect ease, and it will do so if the threads are 
clean. As the face-plate approaches the shoulder 
of the spindle, bring it up into contact carefully 
and without using undue force. If it is jammed 
too tight it will be difficult to remove it without 
injuring the lathe, and besides the thread of the 
plate may ride up on that of the spindle and one 
or both be damaged. 

Measure the diameter of the base of the taper 
scrcAV of the face-plate at the bottom of the thread. 
Bore a hole of this size in the middle of the piece 
of wood and screw it fast to the face-plate, bring- 
ing it up into close contact. 



CHUCK-WOBK. 



33 



Set the hand-rest perpendicular to the lathe Led 
or parallel to the face of the work, about J" distant 
from it, and at a distance below the centre about 
equal to the thickness of the chisel, so that when 
the chisel or parting- tool lies flat on the rest the 
cutting edge shall be a very little below the centre. 
Holding the chisel flat on the rest, perpendicular 
to the face of the work and with the loDg edge 




Fig. 19. 



toward the right, turn down the piece to within 



y-g" of its true size- 



-that is, to a diameter of 3—"- 



Then, reversing the chisel, so that the long edge 
shall be towards the left, trim out the inside of 
the ring also to within —' of its true size — that 
is, to a diameter lyf"? ^^^ only |" in depth. Now 



34 THE SPBBD-LATHE. 

shift the hand-rest to its first position or parallel 
to the axis of the lathe and at the same height as 
before, and with the parting-tool placed y^-g-" to the 
left of the face of the piece and perpendicular to 
the length of the lathe cut in about f " deep. 

You will ol)ser\^e that the parting tool is much 
thicker in the middle, having a diamond-shaped 
cross-section. This gives more clearance to the 
tool when it is used as a boring-tool or to cut a 
circle or to make a cut the exact size of the width 
of the tool. In the present case, however, there 
is plenty of room to spare, and you may make a 
cut a little wider than the tool, which will lessen 
the heating. You should cut lightly and run at 
a moderate speed, so as to avoid drawing the 
temper of the tool, which you may easily do if 
you force it too much. If this does happen it 
will be necessary to re temper the tool. 

You have now turned the outside and inside 
diameters and the thickness of the ring to within 
Yg-" of its true size. Shape and finish it with the 
chisel and sand-paper. In doing this it is obvious 
that you cannot cut with the chisel, as you did in 
forming the file-handle, for instance. In that case 
the grain of the wood ran parallel to the axis of 
the lathe: in this it is every whei*e perpendicular 
to the axis, and if you use your chisel as before it 
will dig in and mar the work. It is to be used 
now as a scraper, being held, not with its edge on 



CHUCK-WORK. 85 

the rest, but with its flat face, and with its length 
perpendicular to the surface which is being cut; 
the direction of the motion of the revolving; wood 
is then perpendicular to the cutting face of the 
tool, instead of being nearly parallel to it, as in 
Exercise 10. 

After turning as much and as near to the re- 
quired size as possible on the face-plate, cut the 
piece off by running the parting-tool or small 
chisel through at h in the figure, meeting the chan- 
nel a, and the ring will then drop off on to the 
tool and will have a nearly circular cross-section. 

To finish it you must use a " chuck " made from 
a piece of 1" pine about 5" square. Before doing 
this face off the remaining piece on the face-plate 
before taking it off, and glue to it a piece of 
cherry, maple, or other hard wood, 3J" square and 
about f" thick, from which to turn another ring. 
While this is drying make the chuck and finish 
the ring. 

Fasten the piece for the chuck to the face-plate 
as you did the piece Just used and turn it to a cir- 
cular form, leaving it as large as it will hold. Cut 
out the centre to a depth just half the thickness of 
the ring — that is, — J" and of a diameter just large 
enough to hold the ring firmly, but not so tight 
that you will run the risk of breaking the ring 
in forcing it in. The bottom of the chuck and the 
cylindrical surface must be turned perfectly true. 



36 THE SPEED-LATHE. 

In chucking work, and also in reversing it in 
the chuck, make sure that it is pushed in till it 
bears firmly all round against the bottom of the 
„ . recess. Then, usin^y the chisel as a 

Exercise 12. . . 

Making a scrapcr and cutting very lightly, finish 
chuck. the ring, and smooth it with fine 

sandpaper. It can be removed and 
reversed any number of times without impairing 
the accuracy of the work provided the chuck 
is perfectly true. 

To familiarize yourself with the behavior of 
different woods under the chisel, turn, from the 
piece of maple already prepared, a duplicate of 
the last exercise by eye. 

Cut off a piece of black walnut about 8" long 

and 2^" square. Mount it and turn it to the 

larerest possible diameter. Face off 

Exercise 13. ° ^ . 

Hollow work, oiic end either plane or very slightly 
A vase or coucave, but Certainly not convex. 
Bore this end and fit it to the face- 
plate. The end being square, the piece should run 
true without the support of the centre ; neverthe- 
less, for greater safety, rough out and do all you 
can in such cases between face-plate and centre. 
The work is now balanced. Remove the tail-stock 
and bore the cylindrical cavity as in the last exer- 
cise, roughing it out with the small chisel. Before 
doing this make a mark upon the chisel at a dis- 
tance from the point equal to the depth of the 



CHUCK-WORK. 



37 



required hollow. Continue the boring with the 
chisel until the mark on it coincides with the face 
of the work. 

This hole, as will appear later, can be bored 
very well with the gouge, but not without 
danger unless the workman is very skilful, as the 
tool is apt to dig in and be jerked from the hand. 
Make a number of cuts, Fig. 20, each cut being sue- 



■ 


y///////////////////A 


m 


^^B 


d 


^ 








:=]= 






a 


'/////////////////a 




Fig. 20. 



cessively about \" larger in diameter and \" less 
in depth than the preceding one, thus forming a 
series of steps on the inside, measurement being 
taken with a gauge, or by marking the chisel as 
before. The steps ai'e now removed and the cavity 
roughed out with the same chisel, held with the 
acute angle reversed or turned toward the centre 
of the Avork, as in Fig. 21. Every tool that has a 
broad surface, when used as a scraper tends to 
make the work untrue or, in turning, eccentric : 
hence the objection to cutting too much with it at 
the thin portion a in the figure. As the gouge is 



38 



THE SPESD-LATHE. 



not a safe tool in the hands of a beo^inner for 
finishing the curved bottom, this may be done with 




Fig. 21. 

a " j"ound-nosed " or " face " tool, Fig. 22, made for 
the purpose from a flat bar of steel or an old file 
ground down thin at the cutting edge. 

As this is your first attempt at hollow or inside 
cutting, it is well to finish all hollowing out be- 




Fm. 23. 



fore commencing work on the outer portion, as the 
work is more firm and is not so apt to chatter and 
snap off as it would be after having been partly 



CHUCK- WORK. 



39 



turned on the outside. In rounding off the out- 
side of the cup the chisel should be used as a 
scraping-tool after the hollow has been roughed 
out with the chisel and gouge. If used as a cut- 
ting-tool it is likely to dig in, on account of the 
springy nature of the hollow. 

Now bring up the tail-centre very gently, allow- 
ing it to make its own centre gradually while the 
piece is revolving. Clamp it fast, and with the 




Fig. 33. 



work between face-plate and centre turn and finish 
the outside as you did the file-handle. First mark 
out the depth of the hollow a, Fig. 24, the length 
of the bowl ^, and the base c and Cj as in the file- 
handle exercise. Using the acute edge of the large 
chisel, insert the point well down into the work 
at by making a notch as shown in the figure, and 
pare or cut down and partly round it off as in the 
last exercise. With the acute angle make another 
cut and pare down to it. Repeat the operation 
until the bowl is nearly completed, turn to the true 
dimensions, and make the thin portion of the inside 



40 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



of the bowl at d concentric, or perfectly true, with 
a small, round-nose tool, and finish with the large 
chisel held as a scraping-tool. 

Rough out the middle portion or stem first with 
the small gouge and chisel, finishing the fillets and 
beads with the special tools. Finish the stem and 
all the curved parts nearest the bowl first and 




'I' 
1 1 \ 



b 

M 



Vf-t-. 









w 



'^- d 



I 

I 

I 

cnt,. 

\ 
\ 



^SS" — -~^ 



I 
Ocni, 






— ——Sciir. — '~~ ' 



Fig. 24. 



gradually work toward the base of the cup 
in order to prevent twisting and breaking the 
stem- 
Great care must be taken not to let the chisel 
or gouge slip and dig in, especially in w^orking 
near the bowl at h. A dull tool is ever ready to 
do this and should not be used. 

In an exercise of this kind when the desisfn is 
more complicated, with many curves of different 
radii, several special tools are necessary, called 
pattern-maker's tools. They are all made in the 



CHUCK- WOBK. 41 

same way as the one just used and can be easily 
altered and adapted to any kind of work. For 
light fancy turning such tools exclusively are 
used, at least after the first roughing out. 

For further practice in such work as the last, 
if there is abundance of time, the following 
variations may be made : Pieces of „ . _ 

•^ . Sxercise 14. 

maple, cherry, and other woods being a broad vase 
glued together, the grain running par- or card-re- 
allel to the axis of the proposed object, 
and one of the pieces being exactly central, so that 
the colors shall be symmetrically arranged, a 
pleasing variety of effect will be obtained. In 
this way a duplicate of the last exercise may be 
made by eye, or the card-receiver, a vase with 
broad and shallow bowl, may be turned. 

Centre the piece exactly at the middle of one of 
the colored pieces and, between centres, turn to 
the largest possible cylinder. If the piece has been 
correctly centred, and the several thicknesses were 
properly prepared, the stripes of color will be 
symmetrical. Face off the end, boi*e it and fit it 
to the face-plate, and then at a low speed and 
with a light cut turn the outside true. When it 
is quite true and perfectly balanced, run at a 
higher speed and turn the cavity for the base, 
which should be slightly concave, and bore and 
fit this end to the face-plate. Now cut out the 
top and finish it to the shape and size given iix 



42 THE SPEED-LATHE. 

the drawing or model, and then, as in Exercise 13, 
bring the tail-centre up. Kough out and nearly 
finish the work between centre and face-plate, 
relaxing the pressure of the centre as the stem 
gets near the true size, so as to lessen the risk 
of breaking, but without removing the centre 
altogether. For the same reason great care must 
be taken to use sharp tools and light cuts, and 
to make special tools for particular parts. 

For repetition of the operations of Exercises 
Exercise 15. 9, 10, etc.,in various woods, an egg- 
An egg or an shaped solid, an Indian club, and other 
Indian club. ^^q\ objccts may, if time allows, 
be made from plain bard wood or from colored 
w^oods glued together. The work should always be 
done from drawings, and should be exact to meas- 
urement. These exercises involve no new princi- 
ples and are not necessary, except for the purpose 
of acquiring quickness and precision. 



PATTERN-MAKING. 43 



LESSON VI. 

PATTERN^-MAKING. 

The preparation of a suitable pattern for a cast- 
ing requires a knowledge of the properties of the 
wood from which the pattern is to be made, the 
process of working it in the lathe or at the bench 
to any desired form, the process of making a cast- 
ing from it, and the process of finishing the cast- 
ing to its proper form and dimensions. This 
knowledge your previous exercises have already 
furnished, and you have now to apply it. 

You remember that wood shrinks and warps, 
and you will endeavor to prevent this, or to coun- 
teract its effect by making allowance for the 
shrinking and by building up the pattern of 
pieces with their grain in different directions to 
prevent the warping. You will have to study 
with care the drawings of a given pattern, and so 
design it as to give it the greatest possible 
strength. As the sand is to be packed closely 
round it, you will have to consider the " draught " 
or inclination of its sides to allow it to be easily 



44: THE 8PEED-LATHE. 

removed from the mould. As the metal will 
shrink in cooling, you must make the proper al- 
lowance for this in designing the pattern. Finally, 
as the casting will have to be finished up, allow- 
ance must be made also for the loss of size in the 
process of finishing. 

The amount of " draught " needed for a small 
pattern is much less than that given to a large one. 
A very thin pattern can be made with its sides 
almost parallel, while for a pattern, or any part of 
one, which enters deeply into the mould or flask a 
draught of |" or J" to the foot is given. 

The allowance for shrinkage of the metal depends 
very much upon the shape and the size of the pat- 
tern. The shrinkage is the greatest where there 
is the greatest amount of metal. 

It is found in practice that in all patterns about 
4" or less in any direction no allowance need be 
made for shrinkage, as the jarring necessary to 
loosen the pattern from the sand enlarges the 
mould enough to make up for the shrinkage, so 
that a casting of this size will be of the exact size 
of the pattern. Above this size, however, the cast- 
ing will be smaller than the pattern. 

The usual allowance made for the contraction of 
the casting in cast iron is a little less than ^-q" per 
foot, and for brass ^" per foot and over, as you 
have learned in your course in moulding. 

First glue up and turn a simple cylinder pat- 



PATTEBN-MAKINQ. 45 



tern for a casting wLicli is to be turned and fin- 
ished to a diameter of 3f " and a Exercise i6 
length of 8". Make the proper al- a pattern for 
lowance for shrinkage, and for turning ^ cylinder, 
in the metal lathe. The size then for the pattern will 
be : diameter, 3f ", plus ^" per foot for shrinkage, 
plus ^" for the surface, or 3J"; length, 8"^ plus 
I"' per foot, plus J", or 8f /' 

Cut off four pieces of pine V X 4" X 10". Test 
the pieces to see if they are winding, and if you 
find them straight glue them together in twos, 
making two pieces 2" X 4" X 10". 

To do this, first see if the glue is of the proper 
consistency ; it is a waste of time to use the glue 
before it is in proper condition. This is a very 
important point in pattern-making. The room 
should be warm, the glue hot and not too thin or 
thick, and the pieces should be heated. 

You have learned from your soldering and 
welding exercises that the closer metal and metal 
are brought together the stronger will be the joint, 
and the same is true in glueing — the closer the 
pieces are brought together by rubbing and press- 
ing out all excess of glue (if it is in proper con- 
dition) the stronger will the joint be. Glue and 
fasten the pieces together with the screw-clamps. 

This pattern is composed of two halves, and is 
to be moulded in a two-part flask (such as you 
have used in moulding.) 



46 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



The line aa shows the division of the pattern. 
Ghie the pieces together, but at the end only, for 
about \" of their length, and you will then have a 
piece 4" square and 10" long. The parting-line 
being at aaj care must be taken to centre the piece 
exactly on this line, so that when the pattern is 
turned and the joint broken or separated the pieces 






Fig. 35. 

shall be exact semi-cylinders. In large work (and 
it will be safer in this case) clamps are fastened 
to the ends of the pieces to hold them together. 
Fasten to the ends the washers, h, h^ provided for 
the purpose, with the hole enlarged to admit the 
centres. Without these washers the work is apt, 
from a jar or shock, to break apart. It is not 
necessary, however, to use them in very small work. , 
After turning the piece to the proper diameter 
(31 ''_^ 1" per foot + i" = 3|")> before separating 
the pieces, bore and fit two dowel-pins, one at 
each end. The length of the piece is now 2" too 
great. Bore the holes for the dowels, one hole 
2" and the other 2 J" from the ends, perpendicular 



PATTERN-MAKINO. 



47 



to the plane surface, and 3" deep, piercing but not 
boring through the bottom half h. The object in 
fitting one dowel-pin nearer the end than the other 
is to insure the putting of the parts of the pattern 
together in the position in which they were 
turned. If put together in the reverse position in 
the mould they might not form a perfect cylin- 
der. Mark and cut off the pins, which should fit 
snugly, but not too tight, in the upper half of the 
pattern, put a little glue on the pins near the top, 
and drive them into place. 

With the parting-tool cut off 1", oi' the amount 
necessary, from each end to make the pattern 
of the exact length, 8" + i" per foot + i" = 8f ", 





Fig. 26. 

giving it also the proper draught. This waste 
at each end will remove the holes made by the 
screws to fasten on the washers, and also the part 
in the line aa of division which has been glued. 
When these ends are cut off with the back-saw 
the parts of the pattern will easily separate. If 



48 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



you find, however, the pins fit too tight, rub them 
a little with sandpaper. They should fit easy, 
but without shake. Shellac the pattern, giving 
the ends two coats, and when it is dry it will be 
ready for use. 

Next turn a pattern for a simple hollow cylinder 
4" long and 4" in diameter. The casting from 
Exercise 17. this pattern is to be used as an ex- 
a hoHow^ ^ ercise on the metal lathe, and to be 
cylinder. finished all over, faced, turned, and 
bored. Allowance must be made for shrinkage 
as in the last exercise, and also for the turning 
and finishing up of the casting to the given di= 
mensions. 

As the cylinder is to be cast hollow, or with a 
hole clear through it, provision must be made for 
coring. To do this, add to the length of the cylin- 
der about 4" for the core-prints. 




While the core-prints ^4, A form a part of the 
pattern, they will not be a part of the casting, and 
they are generally distinguished from the pattern 



PA TTEBN-MAKINO. 



49 



by being painted black. They are added to tlie 
pattern to form an impression in the sand into 
which the core (the exact size of the print) can be 
laid and supported in the mould. 

A is the core and BB the space round the core 
into which the metal flows and thus forms the cast- 















1 . 




\ 


n \ 


1 




( ORE . 





.1 1 

—- ^ — 


:•.•;;;:;;'•■■/••;■;: 


.1 


- \ . 


1 



FiCr. 28. 

ing without displacing the core, as it is held firmly 
between the upper and lower moulds, or "nowel and 
cope," as they are called. The diameter of the prints 
should be J" less than the bore of the cylinder. 

Glue up the pieces, tun, bore, fit, and cut 
them off, all as in the last exercise. 

The pattern-maker understands that, while he is 
to make the whole pattern larger to allow for 
shrinkage, allowance for the metal ma- Exercise i8. 
chine tool is made only where a crow- ^ ^"iit-up 

n • 1 1 ' V Pattern for a 

foot X, or the words "finished size cylinder and 
appear on the drawing. Then the steam-chest, 
length of this pattern when finished will be the 



50 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



.Z 




^rl 



S/ 




05 



^ 



M 



\%l- 



PA TTEEN-MAKING. 



51 



length given in the drawing, Fig. 29 (which 
shows the finished casting), plus the shrinkage, 
plus allowance for the metal-tool, plus the length 
necessary for the core-prints; and the diameter 
will be the diameter of the flanges, plus the shrink- 




Fm. 30. 



age, plus the allowance for the tool. Allowance 
for shrinkage and the tool is made in the same way 
for the steam-chest A. As there is to be no turn- 
ing of the metal between the flanges, no allowance 



52 



THE SPEED LATHE. 



need be made in the diameter of the cylinder ex- 
cept for shrinkage. The pattern for this casting 
is shown in Fig. 30, omitting the core-prints 
at JD. The dimensions must be found, from 
those given in Fig. 29, by adding the proper 
allowances. 

First, glue up and turn, as in the last exercise, 
the simple cylinder as shown in the detail draw- 
ing. Fig. 31, turning the grooves a, a for the 
flanges. 

Second, turn and fit the flanges or rings. 

















— 


— 










— 




— 














a 




a 







Fig. 31. 

Third, make and glue on the flat seat C^for the 
steam- chest. 

To make and fit the rings, fasten to the face- 
plate a piece of pine, large enough for a face- 
plate, and screw it fast, as you did the piece for 
a chuck in the ring exercise. Face it off true 
and find the centre by holding up to the revolving 
piece your lead pencil, supported upon the T of 
the hand rest, making a little dot by touching it 
gently. Draw a line through this point across the 
grain of the wood and fasten one of the pieces for 
the flanges (which are to be in two halves) to this 



PA TTEBN-MAKING. 



53 



face-plate witli screws, taking care to have the 
edge aa coincide with the line drawn through 
the point on the face-plate. 





Fig. 32. 

Fasten in the same manner the second half, 
sliding it up to the edge of the first piece. 
It will then be ready 
for turning. Turn the 
outside diameter 



1'' 

larger and the inside 

1'' 



diameter ^" smaller 
than the pattern, and 
make the thickness \" 
larger than the width of the grooves aa in the 
cylinder. Be sure the face is square with the 
inside diameter before removing the pieces from 
the face-plate. The halves should be exactly alike 
when compared. 

If the pieces are square and true, remove them 




Fig. 38. 



54 TBB SPBED-LATHB. 

from the face-plate, remount the cylinder, and fin- 
ish the grooves to fit the flanges accurately. Use 
the flanges as you would the calipers, trying them 
frequently in the grooves. When they are fitted, 
glue the pieces to the cylinder, being very careful 
to have the ends a, «, Fig. 32, agree with the line 
of division on the cylinder. If the grooves are 
well smeared with glue it will not be necessary to 
put any glue on the flange-pieces, but only to rub 
them down well in place, pressing out all excess 
of glue. After scraping off all the glue^ if there 
is any, between the ends a, «, clamp them to the 
cylinder with the clamp-screws. 

When this is dry, remove the clamps and turn 
and finish the flange part of the pattern and the 
core-print, as shown in the sketch. As this is a 
difficult pattern to draw from the sand, give the 
proper draught, not only to the pattern proper, 
but to all the prints as well. 

Turn and finish in the same manner the cylin- 
der for the steam-chest and then glue it on to the 
steam-cylinder, as in the drawing. Fig. 30. 

The hollow cylinde]', Fig. 34, is to be cut into 
Exercise 19. ™gs in a later exercise (Part II., 
A pattern for Lessou 13, Pistou-rings). You have 
ahoUow already learned (Ex. 17) how to make 

cylinder '^ , ^ / 

without a pattern with core-prints for such a 

prints. cylinder; the same object may now 

be made from the pattern shown, without a core. 



PA TTERN-MAKING. 



55 



As tliis pattern will be fragile, it is to be built 
up of several layers or rings, as shown in the 
elevation A, each ring consisting, as shown in the 











A 






— ■ 


— - 





— 


— - 


- — 


! 
1 


— 




















■ — 


— 




-- 


- — 


1 

















■8^"- 




FiG. 34. 



plan Bj of several segments, all of which have the 
grain of the wood running lengthwise. 

First make a template by dividing oif the ring 
between two properly drawn circles into 6 equal 





Fig. 35. 



pai'ts, Fig. 35. Using one of these segments as a 
template^ mark out parallel with the grain of the 



56 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



wood a sufficient number of pieces to build up the 
pattern, and saw them out. 

Build the first course upon a piece of w^ood, say 
cherry or maple, 6" square. First with the com- 
passes describe a circle J" smaller than the inside 
diameter of the pattern. Place two of the seg- 
ments upon the block with their ends touching 
and their inside edges coinciding with the circle, 
Fig. 35. Fasten them to the block temporarily 
with four small brads, and saw through the joint 
carefully with the back-saw, Fig. 35. If, after 
removing the brads and bringing the ends up 
together again they do not fit accurately run the 
saw through a second time. If the pieces are 
marked and sawn out carefully from the template, 
they ought to fit after running the saw through 





Fig. 36. 

the joint the first time. Fit all the joints in the 
same manner. The last segment may be a little 
long, so that as it is brought up to the circle, 
Fig. 36, it will need sawing two or three times 
through the joint to make the edge and the circle 
agree. Upon the block as a foundation the seg- 



PATTERN-MAKING. 57 

ments of the first course are to be glued, each one 
being glued on its side face to the base-board and 
its end to its next segment. 

The segments of the second course are glued to 
the first in the same manner, but breaking joints, 
that is, with the joints opposite the middles of the 
pieces of the first course, as in Fig. 34, so that 
alternate joints will lie in the same plane. Fit 
and glue up in this manner a sufficient number of 
courses to make the pattern of the proper length. 

When the glue is thoroughly dry turn and fin- 
ish the pattern, very much the same as you did 
the cup or card-receiver. Make allowance for 
shrinkage, etc., as in the preceding exercise in pat- 
tern-turning. After it has been turned and fin- 
ished cut out the lugs. Fig. 36, with the bact 
and compass- saws to make the casting as light as 
possible. The lugs are used to bolt the casting 
to the face-plate of the engine-lathe, in a later 
exercise. ^ 



58 THE SPEED-LATHE. 



LESSON VII. 



BRAS S-TURNING. 



The methods and processes in brass-turning are 
similar to those in wood-turning, but the tools 
used are held more firmly on the hand-rest, because 
brass is much harder than wood. The same speed 
may be used as in turning hard woods, and also 
some of the tools used, first softening them a little 
by lowering the temper to a straw color. The 
top-rake also, if there is any, must be ground off, 
because the advantage gained by the top-rake in 
assisting the tool to cut freely is more than coun- 
terbalanced by its tendency to dig into the work, 
spoiling it, and often breaking the point of the 
tool. 

You have learned by experience that it is almost 
impossible to turn woodwork absolutely true with 
the chisel without having first used the gouge or 
a similar tool in roughing out and turning it true 
and nearly of the required dimensions. As the 
flatter-tool in blacksmi thing, the smoothing- 
plane in carpentry, and the chisel in wood-turning 



BRASS- TUnNlNQ. 



59 



are used for finishing, and not for roughing out, 
so in metal- working, the broad finishing-tool 
should be preceded by a roughing-out tool. Such 
roughing-out tool is most commonly the graver. 

This is made from a bar of square steel or an 
old square file, by grinding the end obliquely to 






Fig. 37. 

form the cutting edges a, a. B is the heel of the 
tool, used as pivot, and rests on the T as a fulcrum. 
For parallel turning the straight flat-faced tool 
(Fig. 38) is the best. The lower surface, shown 
in elevation at <?, is round, the upper, ^, is flat, not 




3^ 



7 c 



Fig. 38. 

hollow as in the gouge for wood-turning. The 
cutting edge may be round-nosed or diamond- 
shaped. The method of holding and operating 
the tool is to grasp the handle in the right hand 
and place the tool on the top of the T, holding it 
down with the thumb of the left hand, with the 
fingers round the socket of the rest, as in Fig. 39. 



60 



THE 8PEED-LATBE. 



The top of the T must be smooth, so that the 
tool may slide along freely. Adjust the T so 
that when the tool is upon it, resting on the 
heel By in a horizontal position, the cutting edge 
shall be on a level with, or a little below, the cen- 




FiG. 39. 

tre of the work, certainly not above it. The tool 
is then moved along to the left, held down, and 
guided by the thumb of the left hand. 

From a piece of brass tubing provided for this 
exercise, cut off with the metal-saw a piece for a 
Exercise 20. ferrule ouc inch long. Remove the 
A ferrule. \,^yy from the iusidc ed2:e with a 

Use of the ^ 

graver. scrapcr or a half-round file. With the 

graver ground sufficiently sharp to turn wood, 
mount and turn the file-handle to fit the ferrule 
tight, drive the ferrule on about two thirds of the 



BUASS-TURNmO. 



61 



way up to the shoulder, and with the graver face 
off the end square. The parting or square-nosed 
tool might be used here, but it is better to learn 
to face with the graver, thus avoiding loss of time 
in changing tools. Cut with the broad face of the 
tool, with one of the top faces resting upon the 
hand-rest, as in Fig. 40. Scrape oif the burr made 




Fig. 40. 

by the hand-tool, and if the end is true reverse 
the ferrule, drive it up to the shoulder, and face 
off the other end. 

The tool can be used as a roughing-, a finishing-, 
and a facing -tool. To use it as a roughing-tool to 
turn and true up the ferrule, grip the handle in 
your right hand with the knuckles below, and 
with the left grasp the tool close to the hand-rest, 
holding the edge or heel J3 firmly to the face of 
the T, with the knuckles on top. The work can 
be turned very true and parallel if proper care 
be taken to make the point of the tool move in a 
line parallel to the axis of the lathe. This can 
be accomplished by means of two motions of rota- 
tion which are to be made together : First. If 



62 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



the tool be turned around the heel B, which is 
resting in a horizontal position on the T rest, the 
point will be carried round the circumference of 
a small vertical circle, reaching its highest point 




when it has described half 

the semi- circumference of 

the circle. As this rotation 

brings the cutting point 

nearer to the horizontal 

plane through the axis of 

the work (it was below this 

plane in the beginning), it 

will cut more and more 

deeply till it reaches its 

highest point, and then again less and less deeply. 

"With this movement alone, therefore, it would be 

impossible to cut a cylindrical surface. 

Second. If the tool be turned round a vertical 
axis at the point w^here the heel J3 touches the rest, 
the cutting point will describe a portion of the cir- 
cumference of a horizontal circle, coming nearest to 
the axis of the work at the moment when the 
tool is perpendicular to the axis of the lathe. This 



BRASS-TTTRmNO. 63 

movement also, by itself, would cut a groove in 
the work, instead of turning it to a cylindrical 
surface. 

Let these two movements be called the vertical 
and the horizontal movement respectively, and let 
each be divided into two halves. During the first 
half of the vertical movement the depth of the cut 
increases, and during the second it decreases. Dur- 
ing the first part of the horizontal movement the 
depth of the cut increases (the hand being carried 
from right to left, and therefore the cutting point 
from left to right), and during the second it de- 
creases. If, therefore, the second half of the hori- 
zontal movement be commenced simultaneously 
with the first half of the vertical movement, and 
this same horizontal movement be reversed during 
the second half of the vertical movement, it will be 
possible so to adjust the rates of the two as to 
cause the cutting point to move in a straight line 
and cut a cylindrical surface. 

Practise the two movements separately, holding 
the cutting point at a short distance from the work, 
so as not to cut. Then, in the same way, practise 
them in combination. Lastly, apply the point 
to the work and, taking very light cuts at first, 
turn the surface truly cylindrical. As the ferrule 
is thin and might be cut through in practising, it 
will be best to turn, first, a solid cylinder. 

From a piece of J" round brass rod turn a 



64 THE SPEED-LATHE. 

cylinder true and parallel. First screw on the 
Exercise 21. chuck. Hemember the precautions 
Practice with ^q j^g taken lu scrcwiug on the face- 

tooi.^^u^rrof P^^^^? ^'^^ ^se the same, and if pos- 
the chuck. siblc greater care, with the chuck, par- 
ticularly if the chuck is a loose rather than 
a close fit on the spindle and offers no resist- 
ance. There is even more risk in the case of the 
chuck than in that of the face-plate of bringing it 
up to the shoulder too quickly and jamming it, for 
the reason that it is heavier, and has, therefore, 
more momentum. 

The chuck is a very delicate tool, easily injured 
and made useless for accurate work ; hence very 
great pains should be taken to screw it on and off 
the spindle carefully. As the chuck approaches 
the shoulder of the spindle bring it up into contact 
gently, and without using undue force. If it is 
Jammed too tight it will be difficult to remove it 
without injuring the lathe, and besides the thread 
of the chuck may ride up on that of the spindle and 
one or both be damasked. 

A piece of round brass half an inch thick and 
3" long is provided, from which to turn a cylin- 
der f" in diameter and \\" long with the graver- 
tool. 

Fasten the piece of brass in the chuck with the 
end projecting about 2" from the Jaws of the 
chuck, and with the centring-tool centre the end. 



BRASS-TURNING. 



65 



The centring-tool is made by grinding the end of 
an old saw-file at an angle equal to the angle of the 
lathe-centre, as shown in figure 43. The edge a 




Fig. 43. 



and not h and c being the cutting part, the edges 
h and c are purposely ground off a little so that 




<^.4 



Fig. 43. 

only one edge, a, shall cut. Bore a hole with an awl 
or make a mark with a centre-punch at the end of 
the handle and the tool will be ready for use. 

Set the T rest about \" from the end of the 
work and at right angles to the axis of the work. 
The end of the work must be faced „ . ^^ 

Exercise 22. 

quite true, if not so already. Place centring 
the point of the tool at the end and as ^^}^ *^® <^®"- 
near the centre of the work as you are 
able to judge, and slide the tail-stock down to it 
till the tail-centre enters the centre in the handle of 
the tool and the tool is suspended between the brass 



GQ THE SPEED-LATHB. 

and tlie centre. Adjust the height of the T rest 
so that when the flat face d is rested upon it with 
the edge and corner a up, the point shall be about 
-3^" below the centre. 

Grasp the handle in your left hand, start the 
lathe in motion, and you will feel the tool wabble 
or rotate a little if the point is not exactly at the 
centre of the work. To stop this eccentric mo- 
tion and to centre the w^ork perfectly true requires 
some skill in handling the tool. The tail-centre 
being placed in the hole in the end of the wooden 
handle, hold the tool with the flat face down and 
parallel to the top of the T rest, but not touching 
it. When the point has entered the metal about 
^~' steady the tool upon the rest by allowing 
the tool to turn till one of its edges touches the 
T. The corner being supported upon the T rest 
as a fulcrum and the edges at h and c being 
rounded off, leaving but one edge a to cut, the 
tool has a tendency to feed itself in towards the 
centre. It is necessary, therefore, to do this very 
carefully and retain complete control over the tool 
to prevent its chattering or springing into the 
work. 

Hold the corner of the tool as just described 
firmly on the rest, and feed the tool in slowly till 
a true centre is obtained, which will be the case 
when this rotary movement of the tool ceases. 
Now remove the centring-tool and support the 



BBASS-TUMNINQ. 



67 



piece between the chuck and tlie dead-centre. Set 
the rest at a convenient distance (about f ") from 
the work. 

Adjust the height of the rest so that when the 
graver is resting upon it and held in the proper 
position the point shall be on a level with the point 
of the dead-centre. 

Run at a moderate speed, with the belt on the 
middle step of the cone. As in wood-turning, 
so in brass-work, all play which may have re- 
sulted from the wearing away of the metal at the 
centre should be taken up. There is danger if you 




Fig. 44. 



cut too deep, or if the work is loose in the centre, 
of having the tool jerked out of your hand, or 
forcing the work out of the centre, spoiling the 
centre, and sometimes breaking off the point of the 
centre. 

When you have turned your work true and par- 
allel with the point of the graver finish it smooth 



08 THE SPEED-LATHE. 

with the same tool^ cutting and scraping with the 
broad face of the tool. 

In using the graver thus as a finishing- tool, to cut 
smoothly place the heel of the tool upon the T 
and slide the tool along. The edges a, a, Fig. 43, 
will do the cutting. The same tool may be used 
as a scraper or as a cutting-tool, according to 
the manner in which it is held upon the rest and 
applied to the work. 

Fig. 44 shows at A and B the two positions of 
the tool, as cutter and as scraper respectively. 

For further practice with the graver, reverse the 
piece in the chuck and turn the end to a conical 
Exercise 23. f^™^ ^^ nearly to the angle of the 
Taper turn- lathe-ccntre as you can judge by the 
ing. A cone. ^^^^ ^^^ then reuiovc the centre and 

turn to a fine point to fit the centre-gauge. 

Remove the chuck, mount the file-handle be- 
tween centres, and finish the ferrule with the 
graver, file, and emery-paper. 

Cut off a piece of J" round brass 2 J" long. 
Exercise 24. ^crcw ou the chuck carefully. Grip 
An oil-hole the piece of brass in the chuck, with 
P^"^' the end projecting out far enough 

to allow the work to be turned and finished. 

For all light turning, if the work does not pro- 
ject too far from the face of the chuck, the centre 
may be dispensed with, which will give more 
room. Work as close to the chuck as possible, 



BBASS-TURMNG. 



69 




and with the graver-tool turn and fit the plug to 
the hole in the cap of the brass bearing of the 
lathe-spindle. Rough out as 
in the last exercise with the 
point of the tool and face 
down the shoulder a as in the 
ferrule exercise. As in the ^^^- ^^• 

ring exercise in wood turning, so in this case finish 

all you can of 
the knob or 
ball before 
cutting it off. 
With the 
I'ound-nose 
tool turn out 
the fillet h to 
the proper 
depth. 

For very 
delicate light 
turning, and even in this case, the 
graver-tool may be used, held 
fii'mly against the hand-rest, with 
the corner opposite the heel in- 
stead of the heel itself serving as a 
fulcrum, with the fingers of the 
left hand round the T, or better, 
the stem of the hand-rest, and the 
thumb pressed down on top of the tool to steady 




Fig 



ro 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



and guide it. The tool held in this position 
serves as a cutting-tool, and if not gripped firmly 
is more likely to dig into the work than when 
applied in the reverse position and used as a 
scra]3er. With the tool in the position shown, 
finish and cut off the plug. Grip the small end 
in the chuck and finish the ball. 

From the piece of brass left in the last exercise 
turn the binding-post and screw, Fig. 47, to dimen- 
Exercise 25. sious. Tum and finish up with the 
graver and round-nose tool, as in the 
last exercise, and with the knurling- 
tool mill the ends. This tool is a 
little roller or knurl, revolving on a 
hardened-steel pin between the jaws 
of the holder. On this I'oller teeth are cut 
similar to the teeth of a file. With each holder 
several knurls are furnished, differing in form 
and cut or pitch, and from these one can be 



tje^^* 



A binding- 
post. Turning, 
milling, drill- 
ing, tapping, 
and threading 
with stock 
and die. 




selected best adapted to the work. In this par- 
ticular case the plain disk may be used. 

Hold the tool firmly supported on the hand-rest. 
Adjust the rest for height and distance from the 



BRASS-TVBNINO. 



71 




work so that when the tool is resting upon it 

and held in a horizontal position the 

centre of the knurl shall be below 

the centre of the work, cutting 

under rather than above the work. 

Examine the tool before using it. The 

cutter should revolve freely and not 

bind when applied to the work, and it 

must be oiled frequently. Start the 

lathe in motion and apply the tool, 

pressing the tool upward as a lever 

rather than directly thrusting it against 

the work. This pressure against the 

soft brass will reproduce the teeth cut 

on the knurl. 

Centre with the hand centring-tool, 
and drill a hole 1" deep in the end of the piece with 
a drill whose diameter is equal to that of the bottom 
of the thread on the tap to be used. The Exercise 26. 
hole is then called a tapping-hole and Centring and 
the drill a tapping drill. Fasten this ^""^^^• 
drill in the drill-chuck provided for the purpose. 
This chuck is self-centring. It is attached to a 
mandrel which fits the hole in the spindle, and in 
the end of the mandrel is a centre. There is inside 
of the chuck a revolving disk with a coil or thread 
cut upon its inside surface and a corresponding 
thread on the sui'face of the jaws. To open or 
close the Jaws it is only necessary to turn this disk 



Fig. 48. 



T2 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



by means of a steel pin inserted in a hole provided 
for this purpose. The point of the drill being 
placed in the centre made in the metal by the 
centring-tool, and the tail-centre being inserted in 




HCDC 



Fig. 49. 



the end of the mandrel, the drill is then pressed 
forward with the dead-centre by the right hand, 
while the chuck is gripped with the left to prevent 
it and the drill from turning. 

You have learned from your experience in 
drilling with the common flat drill, the most sim- 
ple in form, the necessity of entering the metal 
very carefully at first, till a depth sufficient to 
drill a cavity the full diameter of the drill has 
been cut. After this has been done the tool is not 
so apt to run or spring away from its cut, as it is 
supported all round by the metal. If the drill has 
entered this depth without springing away from 
its centre, and is true, it may be fed in to the 
proper depth, 1". 

This drill is called a twist-drill from the fact of 



BRASS-TURNma. Y3 

its having two helices cut from end to end. It is 
very nearly round aud cylindrical, being only very 
slightly tapering from the cutting end to the 
shank, and the diameter is ground away at a, a a. 
short distance from behind the cutting edge to 
give clearance. The advantages of this drill are 




Fig. 50. 

that it always runs true, and if it breaks requires 
no forging or tempering. It offers very little re- 
sistance in cutting, but time must be given for the 
drill to cut and for the dirt or shavings to escape, 
otherwise it will heat and lose its temper and 
possibly break. 

The tap is a very delicate tool, while the drill 
is considered one of the strongest. Taps are 
used to cut the threads of nuts. They are 
of two kinds, machine and hand-taps. The ad- 
vantage the machine-tap has over the hand-tap 
is that all the cutting can be done with one tap, 
without the necessity of backing or unscrewing it 
to free the cuttings, thus saving much time. In 
order to accomplish this the machine-tap is made 
much longer. The threaded end is turned with a 
long taper (Fig. 51). The end at a is turned a 
little smaller than the core or bottom of the thread 



74 THE SPEED- LATHE. 

at hj and the end c is squared to receive a socket 
or Avrench. Between b and c is the shank, which 
is also turned down to the diameter of the bottom 
of the thread and left long to receiv^e the nuts. 
This long taper allows the tap to cut free and 
easily. If this tap is screwed through the hole in 
the nut or piece of work a full thread will be cut 
and the work passed along to the shank, which is 
made long for the purpose. When a sufficient 




Fig. 51. 

amount of work has been tapped to fill the shank 
the machine is stopped, the work removed, and the 
shank again filled if necessary. 

When the hole to be tapped has a bottom (as in 
this exercise or as in the case of the holes in the 
head- and the tail-stocks which receive the cap- 
screws to hold down the brass bearings) and the 
tap cannot be screwed through, hand-taps must be 
used. 

Hand-taps for general use (above ^'' in diame- 
ter) are made in sets, three taps generally forming 
a set, and called the taper, plug, and bottoming 
taps. The first tap (Fig. 52,^) is made tapering 
almost from end to end, the end, as in the ma- 
chine-tap, being of the same size as the hole to 



BRASS-TURNING. 



75 



be tapped or the bottom of the thread. The 
second or plug tap, which follows the taper tap, 
is also turned tapering, but only for a short dis- 
tance — a distance about equal to the diameter of 
the hole to be tapped or in some cases about the 
diameter of the tap. The third or bottoming tap 
(Fig. 52, j5) is left cylindrical the whole length 
of the threaded part. 

To form the cutting edges or teeth the tap is 



Fig. 52. 



made with four (in some cases only three) grooves 
cut the whole length of the threaded end. The 
cutters or teeth, like the cutters of the twist- 
drill, are backed off a little with a file, or in the 
machine, to give clearance and reduce the fric- 
tion. 

As the tap must retain its size and shape with- 
out being easily dulled by use, it is hardened to a 
very high temper. All taps are made to standard 
sizes and of uniform pitch, so that the bolts and 
nuts are interchangeable. The pitch is the dis- 
tance between two threads measured parallel to 
the axis of the tap. 



76 TEE SPEED-LATHE. 

The section of the thread for all small taps and 
those for general use is V-shaped, while for large 
taps it is square. 

The friction, the depth of thread and the rake 
given to the teeth (which is the amount of incli- 
nation of the thread to a perpendicular to the axis 
of the tap), the high temper necessary to prevent 
wear, and the twisting or torsional strain to which 
the tap is subjected make this a very delicate 
tool and one very apt to break unless great care 
is taken in using it. After some experience you 
will be able to judge by the feeling while using 
the tap whether it is cutting freely, or whether, 
if the cutting is continued the tap will break, and 
will learn to manage it accordingly. 

To tap the hole in this exercise, be very careful 
as you approach the bottom of the hole, not to al- 
low the tap to touch ; if it does, the slightest 
turn farther will break it. 

To tap the hole proceed as follows : Hold the 
tap in the little adjustable wrench provided for 
Exercise 27. Small taps, and Avith the tail-centre in 
Tapping. \^^Q ^j^d of the wrench hold it up to 

the tail-centre in the same manner as in the 
drilling exercise, except that no pressure must be 
put on the tap, the object being only to guide it 
and keep it horizontal. Allow the tap to play 
a little in the centre. Turn the tap back oc- 
casionally (by unscrewing it a little) to free it 



BRASS-TUBNINQ. 



n 



from the cuttings and dirt, and it will cut better 
and Mall not be so apt to break. Follow up 
the tap with the tail-centre as it is fed in, and 
when it has been run in very nearly to the 
bottom of the hole it may be backed out, wiped 
off, and put away. 

Mark out and drill the hole f oi' the wire. First, 
mark with the tool a ring aa round the middle of 




Fm. 53. 



the post dividing it- into two equal parts, before 
taking it out of the chuck. With a centre-punch 
mark two centres exactly opposite each other, one 
for the drill and one for the tail-centre. Remove 
the chuck from the lathe and also the work from 
the chuck. With the proper-sized drill fastened 
in the drill-chuck and with the chuck inserted in 
the hole of the lathe-spindle hold the work up to 
the tail-centre, with the point of the drill in one 
centre-punch mark and the tail-centre in the 



78 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



other. Push the drill in very carefully about half- 
way through, then reverse it, and with the hole 
now held up to the tail-centre and the punch- 
ruark placed accurately to the point of the drill 
cut through, meeting the first hole. At this point 
great care must be taken to avoid breaking the 
drill, as it has a tendency to feed itself in. It 
must be held back at this point of the drilling, 
rather than pushed forward. 

Before cutting off and finishing the binding- 
post grip it again in the lathe-chuck, with the 
ends reversed, and centre, turn, and finish the 
screw. 




Fig. 54. 



To turn the screw and cut the thread, first 
turn the head to the proper form and dimensions. 
Rough out the end for the screw-blank to within 
J" of the size of the tap, and while the work is 
between centre and chuck. Fig. 54, mill the head 
with the knurling-tool, as in the last exercise, 



BRASS-TUBNmG. 



79 



Remove the tail-centre and finish the blank for 
the screw-thread, which should be no Exercise 28. 
larger, but rather smaller, if anything, Threading, 
than the size of the tap, as the metal „ ^^^^j^. ^^^ 
enlarges or swells a little in cutting. die." 

The thread is cut with a tool called a stock and 
die, the stock being simply a holder serving the 
same purpose as the wrench does for the tap. 
The die in this case is a small disk made of steel 
about f" in diameter and f thick (shown, en- 
larged, in Fig. 55). The steel is first annealed 




Fig. 55. 



and a tapping-hole drilled through its centre. 
It is then chamfei'ed and tapped, very much 
as in the binding-post exercise, except that a 
hob or master tap, as it is often called, is used 
instead of the regular tap. The hob is a much 
stronger tool. The teeth are not backed off, as in 
the tap, but more gi'ooves are cut along the axis 
of the tool. There are no standard sizes and no 



so THE SPEED-LATHE. 

uniformity of pitch, as in the taps. Some hobs 
with a large diameter have a fine pitch, and some 
have no screw at all, but simply a series of rings. 
Hobs are special tools, and are used only for 
making tools, such as dies, chasers, etc. 

After the disk has been tapped, three or four 
holes are drilled very close to the thread and the 
metal between them and the central hole removed 
with a file to form the cutting edges. To file up 
the cutting edges properly, so that each one shall 
do its share of the work, requires much skill and 
thought. One edge must be filed back, as in the 
tap, to give clearance, and also to prevent the 
teeth from breaking off while unscrewing the die, 
and the other edge is filed u]3 to form the teeth. 
It should also be filed so that the die can start 
square and so make a true thread. To do this 
the cutting edges are made to follow one after the 
other, each one cutting a little deeper than the 
one which preceded it. This should be done by 
filing away all the fractional part of the first 
thread so that the cutting face is one full thread ; 
careful examination of the dies in the shop will 
make this clear. Some dies are so poorly cut and 
filed that instead of cutting the metal smooth 
and clean they press it out, making a very weak 
thread, ^' drunken," or not straight, and often strip 
the thread off, leaving a blank of the diameter of 
the core or bottom of the thread on the tap. 



BBAS8-TURNING. 



81 



Dies for general use are made in two halves or 
parts and fitted so as to slide together in a stock, 
but the die for this exercise is 
a small disk filed or milled 
half-way through (Fig. 56), so 
that it may be adjusted to cut a 
screw slightly larger or smaller 
than the tap, and the screw 
may thus be made to fit the 
tapped hole tight or loose. 
This is done by springing the 
die by means of three small 
screws in the stock, Fig. 56. 

To cut the thread, open the 
die about as far as the stock 
will allow by turning the screw 
A toward the right and S and 
C toward the left. Hold the 
die up to the end of the work 
and turn it towards the right, 
holding and leading it as 
straight as possible. Use the 
same care as in tapping, to 
bring the die up to the head 
of the screw very cautiously 
and without touching it, as 
otherwise you are likely to 
break off the screw, strip the thread, or crack the 
die. Kemove the die by unscrewing it and try 




I'lG 56. 



82 TEE SPEED-LATHE. 

the tapped piece of brass or a little brass nut 
ta^Dped for the purpose and to be used as a gauge, 
and if it is too tight, spring the ends of the die 
together by unscrewing first the adjusting-screw 
A (turning it towards the left) and turning the 
screws B and O toward the right, which will press 
or contract the die, causing it to cut deeper the 
second time it is run over the thread. The points 
of the screws are conical and the die is pierced 
to receive them, so that to expand or open the 
die it is only necessary to unscrew the adjusting- 
screws B and 6^ and to turn the screw A in, thus 
forcing the conical point forward between the two 
parts of the die and opening it. 

Take a sufficient number of cuts over the 
screw-blank to fit the screw to the gauge easy 
without shake. Cut off the screw with the 
parting or square-nosed tool and finish the binding- 
post to the proper length before removing it from 
the chuck. 

Grip the screw lightly in the chuck, protecting 
the thread with paper, or, better, screw the head 
well up into the binding-post or nut, fasten the 
latter true in the chuck, and with the graver and 
emery-paper finish it smooth. 

To make a duplicate of the binding-post from 
an end-piece of brass left over, first face off the 
ends to the proper length, centre, drill, and tap, as 
in the last exercise. Then remove the brass from 



BBASS-TURNlNa. 83 

the chuck and replace it by a piece of soft-steel wire 
having about the same diameter as the tap or bind- 
ing-screw. True up the end and file it to the ex- 
act size if it is too large. Thread \" of the length 
of the wire and screw the piece of brass on it, but 
only so far that the end of the wire shall not pro- 
ject, but shall remain about \" inside of the brass, 
leaving room for the point of the tail-centre. You 
will find in this exercise that without the tail-cen- 
tre inserted in the hole of the brass as described 
it would not be practicable to turn It. Attempt 
to turn it and you will find it impossible, and will 
thus impress on your mind the principle already 
learned in the previous exercises, that to protect 
the lathe and to do accurate work the Exercise 29. 
tail-centre must certainly be used Use of chaser, 
whenever it is possible to do so. w-iththe"^ 
Bring up the tail-centre and finish as chaser, 
you did in the last exercise, with the centre in the 
hole of the brass. With a piece of \'' round 
brass 2^" long, mounted in the chuck, centre, face 
and chamfer the end with the graver-tool. It will 
not be necessary in the first lesson to true or turn 
off any of the metal with the graver, as, if ac- 
curately centred, it will be quite true enough for 
practice-work with the chaser-tools. The object 
in not turnino; it true at first is to save time and 
material. 

Now try to cut a thi'ead over it, one inch long. 



84 TEE SPEED-LATSE. 

Tlie chaser-tool is lield up to the work in about 
the same manner as the first tool in brass- work for 
roughing and turning the metal. Grasping the 
handle in your right hand with the knuckles un- 
der, and not on top, hold the tool down firmly to 
the rest, and in a horizontal position, with the 
left hand. Adjust the T so that the top or face 
of the cutting edge shall be on a line with the axis 
of the lathe-centres when it is held in this hori- 
zontal position. Now ^vith the first and second 
fingers round the socket of the T or rest and the 
thumb pressing down on top, give the handle 
a circular movement, the point directly under the 
thumb serving as a pivot. The movement, with 
the exception of the twisting and raising of the 
handle, is very much the same as the circular move- 
ment given to the graver-tool. 

To start the thread, commence first at the very 
end, holding the tool as just described (horizon- 
tal) up to the end of the work, and with this cir- 
cular movement, and only a little sliding movement 
or even none, use the tool as if it were pivoted on 
the T rest. Cut a screw with the middle part of 
the chaser (an expert will cut this first thread with 
the graver). With a true track for the thread 
started at the end it will not be difiicult to lead 
off the first trail for the thread straight and true, 
as the pitch of the chaser will trace its own track. 
Avoid (as you are now giving the tool a sliding 



BRASS-TUBNINO. 



85 



motion parallel to the axis of the lathe) sliding 
the tool too quickly. If the track for the thread 
be coarser than the pitch on the chaser too much 
sliding motion has been given to the tool, and the 
reverse is, of course, true if the pitch is finer. 




Fig. 57. 



The left-handed screw shown in Fig. 57 would 
be more difficult to cut than a right-handed one. 
The cutting would begin near the chuck, and with 
the corner of the chaser instead of the middle. 

If you find it difficult to master this uniform 
sliding motion, which is necessary in order to cut 
a straight thread, or if the thread is drunken, 
fasten in the chuck a piece of f " round iron 
threaded at one end and practice, allowing the 



86 TSE SPEED LATBE. 

chaser to trail along on the thread, and as the tool 
is carried along on the rest observe the sliding 
motion and try to give the same motion to the 
tool when applying it to your work. 

Cut over with the tool (keeping in the same trail) 
as often as it is necessary to cut it to the required 
depth. The proper depth has been reached when 
the top of the thread is sharp. 

To turn and fit a thread to a standard f " use 
Exercise 30. the Same piece of brass. Turn off the 
Cutting a piece to the diameter of the tap and 

standard ^ 

thread. to the length proposed. 

Turn it with the point of the graver and finish 
in the same manner as in Exercise 28. Cut a thread 
on this with the chaser, to fit the thread in the nut, 
so that it can be screwed on easily by hand. To 
withdraw the chaser at the end of each cut with- 
out touching the shoulder or injuring the thread 
will require skill, which you will acquire by prac- 
tice. 

To cat a thread with an inside chaser fasten in 
the chuck the disk or piece of brass intended for a 

Exercise 31. ^^^? ^^^^ ^^^ Centre it, and drill a f " 
Cutting an in- tappiug-holc through it. Chamfer and 
side thread. rouud off the coruer with the graver. 
To start a true thread on this corner use the 
chaser in very much the same manner as you would 
a scraper or a file. To round off the coi-ner with 
a file you will first hold the file at an angle and 



BBASS-TURNINO. 



87 



then gradually bring it round till it becomes 
parallel with the axis of the work. This motion, 
if properly performed ^vith the chaser, will trace 
a thread on the corner. Then, with the chaser sup- 
ported upon the hand-rest and the cutting edge or 
teeth held parallel to the inside diameter of the 
hole, trace and finish the thread. 




FiCx. 58. 

Use the same precaution in tracing the first cut 
for the thread as you did with the outside chaser. 
Hold the tool up to and inside the hole, touching it, 
and with the thumb of the left hand draw the tool 
up and slide it along carefully with both hands. 
Fit it to the screw turned in the last exercise. 



88 THE SPEED-LATHE. 

Turn anotlier screw as in Exercise 29, and before 
cutting it off screw on the brass nut (Exercise 31) 
and, using tlie screw as a mandrel, mill and finish 
the nut. 

To turn and fit a cylinder or plug by means of 
inside and outside gauges, a method called a ^' cut- 
„ . ^^ and-try"fit, you must be provided with 

Exercise 32. / . 7 . 

Use of inside a Cylinder fitting exactly m a cylm- 
and outside drical holc. Set the outside calipers 
ca ipers. ^^ ^^^ Cylinder or plug and turn your 

work down till it is as near the size of the 
duplicate or gauge as you can measure with 
the calipers. Try the work in the hollow cyl- 
inder and turn off and try again until an easy 




Fig. 59. 

fit without shake is obtained. Then cut off and 
recentre. Having fitted one cylinder to the hole 
in the disk by repeated trials, fit another one with- 
out trying the two pieces before they are finished, 
depending only upon calipers for the fit. The 
accuracy of your work will depend very much on 
the manner of holding the calipers while setting 



BBASS-TUBNING. 



89 



tbem and while applying tliem to the work after 
they are set. Read the lesson in Engine-lathe 
Work on fitting with calipers. Finish and mill 
the head or disk like the pattern. 




Fia, 60. 



For additional exercise make an oil -cup, Fig. 
59, and a glove-powder box, Fig. 60. These exer- 
cises involve no new principles, and Exercise 33. 
are not necessary except for prac- Practice- 
tice. Use the common flat tool or the ^j^^ graver 
graver- tool in this exercise, as in heavy and gouge, 
brass- work or in steel- and iron- work. Hold the 
knuckles below, the forefinger grasping the T, 
and the other fingers the socket, as already ex- 
plained. 

Other exercises which will afford practice with 
the gouge on both inside and outside work are 
shown in Fig. 61. 



90 



TEE SPEED-LATHE. 



LESSON VIII. 

WOOD-TUENING. GOUGE-WOEK. 

Our wood-turning exercises Mtherto, including 
even those on wliicli concave surfaces have been 
formed, as in the case of the file-handle (Fig. 18, 
page 30), have been performed with the chisel. 
There were two reasons for thus deferring the 
introduction of the gouge : first, it is a dangerous 
tool in the hands of a beginner, and even in those of 




Fm. 61. 



an expert, unless it is handled very carefully ; and 
secondly, when the chisel is thoroughly mastered 
much work can be done with it for which the gouge 
would otherwise be used, and thus time can be 
saved. It is now, however, necessary to learn to use 
the gouge. For this purpose we will turn a box or 



WOOD-TURNING, 



91 



cup, shown in Fig. 61. This is very mucli like 
Exercise 13, page 37, and might be performed with 
the chisel, though imperfectly and with more diffi- 
culty than that exercise, because of the under- 
cutting at c. 

Kough out between centres^ as in the egg-cup 
exercise, using the large and small gouge to rough 
out the exterior, and leaving a little to Exercise 34, 
iinish up after the inside has been -'^^"p- 

. Use of the 

finished, as in the first lessons. gouge. 

One of the mistakes oftenest made in using the 
gouge is to attempt to cut up an incline. Always 
cut downwards, and turn the concave part of the 




Fig. 63. 



gouge away from the surface you are cutting. 
Finish the moulding aa and all you can of the 
outside first, and then proceed to face and bore. 

To face and bore, the position of the T is to 
remain just as it would be for outside work, 



92 



TEE SPEED-LATHE, 



especially if tlie cavity to be cut is a shallow one ; 
if deep, the T should be moved a little obliquely, 
but not at right angles to the axis of the lathe, 
as for other tools used in boring. Now if the 
gouge is properly ground and has but one slope 
ah, place it on the T with the hollow inclined 
to the length of the T, and with the bevelled 
face bearing flat against the end of the piece, 
which has been already faced off square and true. 
In this position the gouge of course cannot cut. 
Still holding the gouge thus, move it up or down, 




Fig. 63. 

SO as to bring the cutting edge or point a to the 
centre of the work. It will still refuse to cut. 
Now swing the handle of the tool just a little 
toward your right, still keeping the point or cut- 
ting edge a at the centre and still holding the con- 
cave face towards the right. This movement will 
cause the heel h to move a little from the surface, 
and the point a to penetrate or dip in, cutting a 



WOOD-TURNING. 93 

small cavity in the face. Now to cut deeper the 
tool must be pushed in and over still a little farther 
aAvay from the centre, cutting on the farther side 
rather than on the side of the centre nearest you. 
This will perhaps become clear to you if you stop 
your lathe and use the gouge as you would a carv- 
ing-tool. This will give it about the movement 
and the position it should have on the rest. You 
would in this case naturally grasp the handle of 
the tool in your right hand and the blade in your 
left, and push the gouge a little from you, gradu- 
ally raising the point or edge a (Fig. 63) and 
turning or twisting the tool over and round toward 
the I'ight, till the concave part of the tool should 
lie almost flat on the T, having made a quarter 
turn. If the work had been revolving at the time 
instead of being at rest a cavity would have been 
cut all round the face, and not only one quarter of 
the way round, as would have happened if the 
wopk were at rest. Start the lathe running and 
repeat this, pushing the gouge ahead, raising the 
cutting edge and twisting the handle, and compel- 
ling the tool to cut on the side farthest away from 
you, repeating the operation until the prpper 
depth has been reached. It may be necessary to 
.move the T round obliquely in order to finish this 
exercise. Deep holes cannot be cut with the gouge ; 
a hole can be bored, but it cannot so easily be 
enlarged. 



94 



TEE SPEED-LATEE. 



First turn a true cylinder having the diameter 
of the intended ball. With a parting-tool turn 
xi^^^^,-.^ QK down a quarter of an inch at therig-ht- 

xjxercise oo. -l o 

Turning a hand end to the diameter of J". Be- 
bau by hand, gjjjning at the same end, lay off two 
distances ch and ha equal to half the diameter 
of the ball, and at the three points thus set off 
mark lines round the circumference wdth a fine 




Fig. 64. 



lead-pencil or the acute angle of the chisel. Sink 
the parting-tool in at <^ and <9 (leaving part of the 
line if possible) to a diameter of f " or so. The 
faces thus formed should be parallel and the dis- 
tance between them equal to the diameter of the 
ball, the line h being exactly midway between 
the faces. Before cutting any deeper with the 
parting-tool chamfer the ends off till, tested with 
the calipers, the work measures the same across 
aCy ac^ hh, and dd. Then cut off and chuck the 
partly turned ball, with the line hh a little out- 
side of the chuck, Fig. 65, and running perfectly 
true. One half of the ball can now be finished. 



WOOL-TURNING. 



95 



Rougli out the exterior first with the small gouge 
and finish with the chisel or other scraping-tool, 
cutting away half the breadth of the line hh. As 
the ball is to be of a standard size, apply to it the 





Fig. 65. 



gauge, Fig. 65, a piece of sheet brass about yV" 
thick. Several such gauges are kept on hand to 
be used for this purpose, and sometimes a plate 
or block of metal, Fig. QQ^ with a series of 






c 



iuG. GU. 



holes accurately turned in it to test finished 
balls. Having turned one half the ball true to 
gauge, remove the chuck, push out the ball, and 
make another chuck to receive and hold the fin- 
ished part which has just been turned. Hollow 
out this second chuck so that the half ball will go 
into it far enough to hold tightly, allowing the 



96 



TBE SPBED-LATBE. 



angles to be turned off, the line h remaining out- 
side a little distance from tlie face of tlie chuck, in 
which it should be carefully set as before. Turn 
this outer half ^ in the same manner. The work 
must gauge precisely the same at all points. Test 
with calipers and gauge, including the ring-plate 
if you have one, and mark with a pencil or with 
the gauges themselves any little protuberances 
found. These protuberances can all be removed 
very quickly between female centres or blocks, 
Fig. 67, having in each a small cavity or hollow 




Fia. 67. 



turned to receive the ball. The chuck-block h is 
made fast to the face-plate, while the block a is 
loose and held up to the ball by the dead-centre ; 
this block or centre should be jDerfectly true, so 
that the ball can be moved from one desired 
position to another and always revolve concen- 
trically. This is very slow work, and not so ac- 
curate as with a lathe having special attachments 
for the purpose, such as spherical slide-rests, etc., 
and it requires much more skill. 

Metal balls, used as valves in some pumps, are 



WOOD-TURNING. 97 

often turned and fitted to their seats by hand. To 
save time the balls are cast two or more Exercise 36. 
on a stem, so that they can be roughed ^ rtieisi bail, 
out to size and shape between the centi'es, after 
which they are nicked and cut off with a metal- 
saw, or if the nick is midway between two balls, 
as at a, they can be broken off and the projections 
filed off to fit the gauge. 

The chucks are then prepared to fit the partly 
finished balls, as in the last exercise, and the balls 
are turned and finished in the same way as the 




Fig. 68. 

wooden ball. The ball, which should have been 
turned very close to the form of the gauge and set 
of calipers, is now chucked either in a chuck with 
a hollow large and deep enough to receive about 
one half of the ball and hold it firmly, or between 
the shallow chuck and female centre, as described 
in the last exercise. Now with a keenly sharp- 
ened tool cut a little flat ring of a diameter exactly 
equal to that of the ball. Turn the ball so that the 
plane of the ring shall pass through the axis of 
the lathe, and turn another band or ring at right 
angles to the first, cutting down till it just touches 



98 THE 8PBED-LATHE. 

the first ring. By thus turning the ball round a 
few times in the chuck, so that the marks shall 
cross and recross each other, cutting as many as 
convenient, it will be easy to finish entirely by 
hand, without the assistance of the ball-cutter, a 
perfectly true ball, so that when it is ground to 
its seat with glass, sand, or burnt foundry-sand, 
and oil, it will be absolutely tight. 



OVAL TURNING, 99 



LESSON IX. 

OVAL TURNINa. 

Whe]^ two head- and tail-stocks from lathes of 
the same size are mounted together temporarily on 
one bed by means of a plate made for the purpose, 
and with a long drum or overhead gear, as it is 
called, of the same length as the bed, the machine 
thus produced is a "double-header," Fig. 69. It 
will have two cones and two dead-spindles. This 
allows you to place any piece of work between one 
pair of centres without disturbing that mounted in 
the other. Different speeds also can be obtained, 
comparatively slow in one and fast in the other, 
one mandrel or centre revolving say at 25 and the 
other at 250 revolutions per minute, and both 
turning in the same direction or, if one belt is 
crossed, in opposite directions. 

The work to be turned is, of course, mounted 
between the front-centres. The tool may be a 
rapidly revolving disk ?>, carrying one or several 
cutters, and driven by the overhead drum. The 
shape or form of the cutters is made to suit the 
special kind of work. The disk is carried in a 
slide moving in and out, to and from the centre, 



100 



TEi: 8PEED-LATBE. 



perpendicularly to the axis of the lathe. The 
cutter is pulled up toward the centre by a weight 
or spiral spring, and moved along the bed by a 
screw or lever. Now the pattern of an axe- 




Fm. 69. 



handle or any oval piece of work is mounted be- 
tween the back-centres and the proper speed 
given to it, which in this case must be the same 
as that of the work to be turned. 

The two mandrels, one driving the pattern and 
one the w^ork to be turned, are revolved. A 
pulley a, having the same diameter and form as 



OVAL TURmNQ. 101 

the cutter h, is fastened to the slide, and is held in 
contact with the pattern by a weight or spring, 
not shown in the figure. As this oval pattern re- 
volves, it pushes the slide and the cutter out and 
further away from the centre, and as it continues 
to revolve the weight or spring draws the slide 
back toward the centre again. The pulley is thus 
kept close to and bearing against the pattern, 
and if the cutting edge of 
the cutter or disk and the 
form and circumference of 
the pulley ai'e the same, an 
exact copy of the pattern 
will be produced. It is easy ^^^' ^^' 

to see that the common lathe can thus be made 
to do many kinds of work. An ^' index-plate," a 
pair of extra centres adjustable as to height and 
angle with the lathe-bed, and other attachments 
are now found permanently fixed on beds of lathes 
or machines designated and sold by special names. 
With such machines the workman is valued not 
so much for the amount and accuracy of the work 
accomplished, as for his ability to invent, design, 
and set up his tools, as will be seen later in the 
study of engine-lathe work. 




102 



TEE SPEED-LATHE. 



LESSON X. 

METAL-SPINNIN^a AI^D BUENISHII^G. 

Metal-spit^ning and burnisliing can be done 
on the hand-lathe without the use of other attach- 
ments ; all that is needed is the T, necessary 
chucks, mandrels, and the ordinary hand-tools, 
tilting-rest and compound rest. For this work 
the lathe should make about 800 or more revolu- 
tions per minute. 




Fig. 71. 



METAL-SPINNING AND BURNISHING. 



103 



To burnisli a piece of work is to polish or give 
a gloss to the surface, and it is done by holding 
up to the work a burnisher, a tool with a small, 
bright surface, generally rounded at the end. The 
tool must be made very hard and kept cool. To 
burnish a piece of work, a ring, for Exercise 37. 
instance, Fig. 71, the work must first Burnishing, 
be finished smooth, and all the scratches removed 
with files, emery, and oil. The tool is then ap- 
plied by holding it in the rest and pressing it 
against the work as it revolves at a high speed. 
This gives that high polish to the surface that 
is found in highly finished silver- and steel- 
work. 




Fig. 73. 



Spinning is very interesting work and is almost 
a business in itself. To spin metal, the speed must 
be high and the metal thin and properly annealed. 
A rest with a long T is required, with a number 



104 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



of holes for the insertion of the steel pin which is 
to serve as a fulcrum for the tool. But little 
skill is required in spinning, compared with that 
demanded by other kinds of lathe-work. The 
effect required is produced by pressing against the 
metal with a smooth tool free from all sharp cor- 
ners. For ordinary use the most convenient tool 
is the one shown in Fig. 72, having an elliptical 
cross-section ; but sometimes several different tools 
are used in one piece of work. 

Try as an exercise to spin a common bowl or any 
concave vessel. First a disk of metal is cut of the 
Exercise 38 P^^^P^^' diameter and a mould turned 
Spinning. A of the required form (Fig. 73) and 
metal cup. fastened to the face-plate. The disk 
is placed between the mould and a cylindrical 
piece of wood, and held in position by the centre. 




Fig. 73. 

The mould is often hollowed a little on its face 
to make it hold better. First centre the disk 



METAL-8PINNING AND BURNISHING. 105 

by holding tlie tool or a piece of wood on tlie 
T with the end bearing up against the lower edge 
of the roetal, Fig. 74. Press gently as you turn 




Fig. 74. 

the work by hand, and, the pressure between the 
head-stock and the metal being released, a few 
revolutions will cause the work to revolve concen- 
trically. Now, with the disk properly chucked, 
and a speed which will generally be the highest 
that can be obtained on the ordinary lathe, place 
the steel pin in one of the several holes that will 
bring the tool about at right angles to the lathe- 
bed when held ready for work. Holding the cen- 
tring-tool, made of wood, in the left hand and 
the tool of steel in the right, place them both on 
the rest, with the disk between them. Now bring 
a gentle pressure to bear against the metal, near 
the centre first, and if you give it time you will 
cause the metal to conform perfectly to the mould, 
but if you force it too rapidly the metal will crack. 
The object in using the wooden tool is to prevent 



106 



THE SPEED- LATHE. 



this cracking or buckling and to steady the plate 
and the tool. If the work buckles and cracks the 
speed probably is not high enough. It is this high 
speed and a light j)ressure, such as would produce 
a slight indentation if the lathe w^ere at rest and a 
series of circles when revolving, that will enable 
you to draw out and mould the metal into any de- 




FiG. 75. 

sired shape ; an expert after spinning a piece of 
work like this can spin it back again to its origi- 
nal form, a disk. Spinning is usually done dry, 
although in some cases soap-suds are used. Press- 
work or stamping is taking the place of spinning 
to some extent, particularly in sheet-brass work, 
when large quantities are ordered. White metal 
is mostly spun at present, as it cannot so easily be 



METAL-SPINmNG AND BURmSHING. 107 

pressed out in dies with a press. Though it is 
very flexible and can be spun nicely, it needs more 
" coaching " and time than sheet brass, and when 
stamped is likely to tear under the great pressure, 
while sheet brass, if annealed, does not. 

The spinner, like the pattern-maker and the 
lathe-hand, is supposed to know how to design and 
make all his tools, moulds, etc. Some of the 
moulds used for spinning faucy oil-cans, sugar- 
bowls, teapots, and some of the large work spun 
for locomotive and marine engines require much 
thought and skill; the moulds, instead of being 
solid, are in sections and would puzzle an inex- 
perienced woi'kman to put them together. 



108 THE SPEED-LATHE. 



LESSON XL 

SPECIAL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 

You have found that it takes a considerable time 
to turn an oil-plug, a binding-post, or any exercise 
which requires a considerable number of opera- 
tions. If a great number of such pieces were 
required quickly a sample would first be 
made by hand, and then special tools would 
be designed, to be used in an appropriate 
machine. Such machines are the screw-cutter, 
the tapping-machine, the milling-machine in its 
different forms, the gear-cutter, the monitor, 
the turret-lathe, and many others specially 
designed for turning out work accurately and 
in large quantities. If you could see the binding- 
post turned and finished in the turret-lathe or the 
screw in the screw-cutter you would find that a 
very great number can be produced in a short 
time. These special tools and machines are all 
very costly, and if a tap, die, or forming-tool should 
be ruined by cutting a dirty casting or piece of 
work with iron or steel in its composition, the loss 
would be considerable, 



SPECIAL TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. 109 

All castings and brass must tlierefore be clean, 
and the finisher must insist upon this. A well- 
equipped shop will have in connection with it a 
foundry and all the necessary tools. It will be 
provided with a separator to separate all the iron 
and steel chips and filings from the brass. This 
consists of a vertically revolving magnetic disk, 
over the edge of which is fastened a band of 
very thin sheet brass, covering the rear half of 
the edge. The cuttings from the machines are 
put in a funnel directly over the slowly revolving 
disk and allowed to fall on the brass strip, and 
thence on the magnet. The brass filings and 
chips are not attracted by the magnet, and as the 
disk turns they drop off into a receptacle placed 
to receive them, while all the steel and iron re- 
volves with the magnet, but before making a com- 
plete turn is brushed off by brushes which come in 
close contact with the cylinder. This operation is 
sometimes repeated. 

All castings are washed or cleaned by putting 
them into a revolving barrel called a tumbler. 
This barrel is sometimes made of iron, but wood 
is much better, as the iron sticks to the castings, 
giving them a bad color. The tumbler should not 
be entirely closed, and is generally suspended in an 
inclined position over a tub or sluice with two or 
three compartments to receive the dirt and water 
from the barrel. All the sweepings from the floor of 



110 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



the foundry, tlie burnt sand, pieces of scrap-iron, and 
dirt or dust are put into the bai'rel with the cast- 
ings. As the barrel revolves, full of water, not only 




Fig. 76. 

are the castings cleaned, but the brass lumps and 
chips also. The inclination of the tumbler will 
cause all the pieces to rub together. The dirty 
water and the pieces of brass that are washed out 
through the cre^ ices made in the barrel drop into 
the tub, the heavier pieces in the first compart- 
ment, the next lighter in the second, and the light- 
est in the third, the dirty water flowing on and 
discharging into the drain ; the overflow being at 
the top of each tub, nothing is lost, and every 
piece of brass in the sand is found and is per- 
fectly clean. The castings after revolving for a 
time in this barrel of water, sand, and scrap are clean 
and fresh-looking and have what is called a good 
color, 



SPECIAL TOOLS AND AFPLIANGES. 



Ill 



The forming-tools, reamers, taps, and dies, and 
al] special tools used for producing work accu- 
rately and quickly, are very expensive. Exercise 39. 
Til is will readily be seen, for instance. The forming- 
in the case of the forming-tool used *°° " 
for valve, injector, and beer-pump w^ork. Fig. 77. 
This is a cutting-tool resembling a piece of wide 
moulding, sometimes 6" or more in width, with 
the end cut off obliquely instead of square. The 




Fig. 77. 

stock is first roughed out or cleaned with a com- 
mon hand-tool. The tool, which is set vertically 
and at the proper distance from the line of centres 
and parallel to it, is brought down in the same 
way as the knife in the shears, cutting first at the 
acute angle, at the very end of the piece, and 
gradually along the whole length of the tool, 



112 THE 8PBED-LATHE. 

• 

thus meeting with but little resistance. If this 
tool were square at the end it would be im- 
possible to cut with it, nor would it be prac- 
ticable even to use it as a scraper-tool, as it would 
fill the work full of " chatter "-marks — little cuts 
like those on milled work. The reason of this is 
that all broad-faced tools spring away from the 
work and return to it with a series of vibrations; 
but with the cutting edge at an angle as just 
described, properly ground and tempered, it will 
cut a very smooth surface and a great many such, 
making them all alike. 

With these special tools, emery-wheels, buffers, 
and rag-wheels, some very fine work in brass is 
finished by cheap labor, as that of boys or un- 
skilled hands, in a skort time. The rag-wheel is 
made of disks of rags, 12" or more in diameter, 
fastened to a mandrel and revolving at a speed 
as high as 4000 revolutions or more per minute, 
giving a fine polish to the work which is pressed 
against it. 



XINBERHAND CUTTING' WITH THE GOUGE. IIS 



LESSON XII. 

UNDERHAND CUTTING WITH THE GOUGE. 

Having learned tow to do good work by hold- 
ing the handle of the gouge in your right hand 
and the blade in your left, with the knuckles on 
top, which is called " overhand " working, you 
may now begin using the tool in the following 
ways : 

First. When turning large work, 20" or more in 
diameter, hold the handle in either the right or 
the left hand, and press your arm firmly against 
your side, holding the knuckles of the left hand 
either above or below the blade. 

Second. In turning very small work hold the 
handle in your right hand and the blade in your 
left, with the thumb on top and the forefinger 
under the T, as in Fig. 78. 

Third. In small work, either in wood or brass, 
when the work is hard or angular and it is 
necessary to hold the blade of the tool very 
firmly on the T, place the thumb in the con- 
cavity of the gouge, the forefinger around the 



lU 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 




Fia. 78. 



UNDERHAND GUTTING WITH TH^ GOUGB. 115 

T, and tlie other fingers grasping the socket and 
the rest, as in Fig. 79. 




Fig. 79. 



Fourth. In turning small work, when it is nec- 
essary to use the gouge or calipers frequently, 
hold the knuckles underneath, as in Fig. 80, so 
that the tool may drop into a vertical position, 
out of the way. 



116 



THE 8PEED-LATHK 




Fm. 80. 




Fm. 81. 



UNDERHAND CUTTING WITH THE GOUGE. Il7 



Fifth. Wlien using the fingers of the left hand 
to measure and dismount the work quickly while 
it is running, place the thumb in the hollow of 
the blade while the fingers are stretched over and 
around the revolving work, as in Fig. 81. 

Sixth. Work that is fas- 
tened on the face-plate or 
held in the chuck is called 
face-plate or chuck work. 
For such woik the gouge is 
held as in Figs. 78-81 to 
turn the exterior, and as 
described on pages 91 to 93 
to bore, enlarge and finish 
the inside. 

The exercises shown in 




Fig. 82. 




Fig. 83. 



the following figures are suitable for practice in 
these several ways of working, none of which, 



118 



tbe SPEED-LATBE. 





Fancy Handles. 





Knobs. 




Fig. 84. 



Chessman. 



UNDERHAND CUTTING WITH THE OOUOE. 119 



however, are to be attempted before you have be- 
come skilful in " overhand " turning. 

Fig. 82 shows the frame and Fig. 83 the cyl- 
inder of a small vertical engine. This is to be 
turned by the first method, except when the work- 
man prefers to turn it on an engine-lathe. 




Fig. 85, 



Fig. 86. 



120 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



Figures 84 are suitable for the second metliod. 
Fis^ures 85 illustrate the third case. 



The pieces in Fig. 86 are suitable for the 
fourth method, where the frequent use of the 
calipers, or of the "sizing-chisel" shown in Fig. 
87, is required. 




Fig. 87. 



Balusters, spindles for cabinet-work, rungs for 
chairs and tables, such as Fig. 88, when made in 




Fig. 88. 

large quantities and cheaply, are gauged by the 
sense of touch and mounted and dismounted 
without stopping the lathe. They are suitable 
for the fifth method of workinsr. 

Figures 89« and 895 show objects suitable for 
the sixth method. 




Fig. 89a, 



UNDERHAND CUTTING WITH THE QOUQE. 121 




iiiiifiim 



h 




r\ 




Fig. 895. 



122 



THE SPEEB-LATHB. 



^ Select your own method of treating the follow 
mg cases; ^ -luhuw 




Gavel. 



Mallet-gavel. 

Fig. 90. 



Glove-darner. 



TEE SLIDE-BEST, 



123 



LESSON XIII. 



THE COMPOUND EEST. 



Fig. 91 represents a slide-rest, with a device c 
for holding the cutting-tool. It is fastened to the 
bed, like the T rest, by means of a bolt. The 
depth of cut is adjusted by means of the handle 
aa or hh. The slide can be 



swung around so 




Fig. 91. 



that the direction of the cut may be parallel to 
the length of the shears or at any desired angle 
with them. It is operated transversely by means 



124 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



of the screw h. A slide-rest of this description is 
called a compound rest, and is constructed to turn 
work tapering as well as parallel. 

Set the rest to cut parallel with the axis of the 
lathe, and turn a cylinder, as in Exercise No. 22. 
Exercise 40. While the compouud rest may be used 
The shde-rest. ^\^^ ^]^g commou SDced-lathe, it is an 

Turning par- , ^ . 

aiiei. essential part of the engine-lathe, and 

the various operations of turning parallel and ta- 
pering, setting, grinding, and operating the tools 
for slide-rest work are fully described in the chap- 
ters on that machine. 

To make a miniature Sellers shaft-coupling. Fig. 
92, such as may be found on the shafts in many 

Exercise 41. shopS, first CUt off twO picCCS of 1" 

Tapering and ^^^^j^^j brass 1" loufif, chuck, facc, Centre, 

making a o^ 7 7 7 

coupling. and bore a hole through each piece 

-^-^" in diameter. Now replace it with a piece of 
^" round brass rod and, allowing it to protrude 




Fia. 92. 



from the face of the chuck 3" or more, centre it 
and turn about 1" of its length to fit the hole in 



THE 8LIDE-RE8T. 



125 



the cylinder tight. Drive it in gently, and, using 
the rod as a mandrel, proceed to turn and finish 
the piece. Set the slide-rest to turn tapering V at 
one end and \^" at the other. This can be done by 
first turning the ends to the proper dimensions and 
setting the slide so that as the tool is moved along 
from end to end it shall be exactly at the same dis- 




FiG. 93. 



tance from the piece at both ends. It can be set 
approximately by sight, and very exactly by hold- 
ing a piece of metal which fits closely, first be- 
tween the point of the tool and the small diame- 
ter, and then between the tool and the large diam- 
eter. If the piece feels the same at both places 
the rest may be considered properly set. In cases 
where the work can be removed from the lathe 



126 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



and replaced exactly, you can test it very accu- 
rately by running the tool up and scraping off a 
chalk-mark and a little of the metal at one end, 
and then, without touching the screw or the 




Fig. 94. 



handle of the rest, running the tool along to 
the other end, where it should scrape off the same 
as at the first. 




Fig. 95. 



Turn the two pieces so that they are alike. 
Having now finished the cones, aa. Fig. 92, turn 
and fit the shell or ring, hh. Chuck a piece of 



THE SLIDE-REST. 



127 



1 J" round brass about 2 J" long. Face and centre 
it and drill a J" hole through it. Then enlarge 
with a I" drill. Now with a brass-boring tool 
bore it true to' |" diameter. Next bore a recess 
at the end 1" in diameter and J" deep. The 
chuck for this exercise should be absolutely true, 
and the ends or face of the work must be pushed 
back against the face of the chuck. Now set the 
tool and bore the taper, as shown in Fig. 96, 




Fig. 96. 



boring first one half to fit one of the cones, and 
then, after reversing the piece in the chuck, boring 
the other half to fit the second cone. The setting 
of the rest is accomplished in the same way as 
for the outside taper. (See Fig. 93.) With the 



128 



THE SPEED-LATHE. 



cones placed in position and fitting snugly in tlie 
shell or rino;, mark and drill three holes, about 
1" in diametei', to fit a wire of the same size as 
the binding-post screw-tap. Drill a clearance- 
hole in one cone and a tapping-hole in the other. 
Saw with a metal-saw each cone half through, 
as at a, Fig. 97, so that it can be sprung together. 





Fig. 97. 

Turn and fit to the hole in each of the cones, 
easy without shake, 8" in length of the piece 




Fig. 98. 

used as a mandrel. Fasten the cones tightly on 
it with the little screws and true off and finish the 
outside of the ring or shell. 

This exercise takes in about all that the lathe is 
capable of doing, including facing, boring, drill- 



THE SLIDE-REST. 



129 



ing and tapping, parallel and taper turning, taper 
and parallel fitting, iinisliing on a mandrel and 
polisMug. 

Such pieces as fancy posts for electrical and 
telegraphic work, straight-way or three-way cocks 
for indicator practice, etc. (Fig. 99), can be easily 






Fig. 99. 



turned and finished up. They are useful exer. 
cises for practice, but do not involve any new 
methods of working. 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 



PAGE 

Appliances, special 108 

Ball, turning a. . . 94 

Bearings 1 

Bed of the lathe 1 

Belt, care of 3 

Belt, shifting the 10 

Brass-turning 58-89 

Built-up patterns 50-57 

Burnishing 103 

Burr, removing the 60 

Calculating the speed 11 

Calipers, use of 88 

Centres, live and dead. 5 

Centres, removing and replacing 5 

Centring and mounting work 14 

Centring-tool 65 

Centring with the centring-tool 65 

Chaser 83 

Chattering 112 

Chisel-handle, turning a 30 

Chisel, holding the , 20, 24-31 

Chuck, care of the 64 

Chuck-work 32 

Chuck, wooden 35 

Clamps for divided patterns. . . ., 46 

Cleaning work 109 

Compound rest 123 

Concave and convex surfaces, turning , 23-29 

131 



132 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 

PAGE 

Cores 49 

Core-prints 48 

Counter-shaft 3 

Coupling, turning a 124 

Crowning of pulleys 4 

Cutting an inside screw witli a cbaser 86 

Cutting a screw with, a die 81 

Dead-centre 5 

Dead-spindle 1 

Dies 79 

Double-headed lathe 99 

Dowels for divided patterns ... 46 

Draught of pattern 43 

Drill-chuck 71 

Drilling 71 

Drill, twist 72 

Emery-wheel 112 

Face-plate 32 

Facing- tool 61 

Ferrule, turning a ^ 60 

Finishing-tool 59 

Flanges in patterns 52 

Flat-faced tool 59 

Forming-tools Ill 

Gluing 45 

Gouge for turning wood 16 

Gouge, holding the 16-18, 91, 92, 113-117 

Gouge, use of the, in wood-turning 90-93 

Graver 59 

Graver, cylindrical turning with the 62 

Hand-rest 1 

Head-stock 1 

Hobs 80 

Holding the chisel 20, 24-31 

Holding the gouge 16-18, 91, 92, 113-117 

Hollow patterns 48-57 

Hollow work 36 

Journals 1 

Knurling-tool < 70 

Live-centre 5 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 133 

PAGE 

Live-spindle 1 

Metul-spinning 103 

Mounting work 14 

Oval turning , 99 

Parting-tool 34 

Piittern, allowance for slirinkagc 43 

Pattern, draught of 43 

Pattern-making 43 

Patterns, built-up 50-57 

Patterns, divided, clamps for , 46 

Patterns, hollow 48-57 

Patterns with flanges 53 

Pitch of taps 75 

Plug for oil-hole, turning a , 68 

Pulleys, crowning of the - 4 

Pulleys, fast and loose 4 

Kag-wheel 113 

Rest 1 

Ring, turning a 33 

Roughing-out tool 59 

Round-nosed tool 38 

Screw, cutting with a die .... 81 

Screw, cutting with the chaser 83 

Screw, inside 86 

Screw of tail-stock, double thread on 8 

Screw of tail-stock, right- or left-handed 8 

Separating brass and iron cuttings 109 

Setting the tail-stock .- 7 

Shears 1 

Shifting the belt , IG 

Shrinkage, allowance for, in patterns 43 

Sizing-chisel 130 

Slide-rest 133 

Special appliances 108 

Special tools 108 

Speed, calculating the 11 

Speed-counter 13 

Speed-lathe, care and management of 1 

Speed-lathe, parts of 1 

Spindle screw 1 



134 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 

G B 

Spindles, live and dead. 1 

Spinning 102 

Spline in the dead-spindle 7 

Spur-centre 1 

Starting and stopping 10 

Tachometer 11 

Tail-pin 1 

Tail-stock 1 

Tail-stock, setting the 7 

Taper turning 124 

Tapping 76 

Taps 73 

Taps, pitch of 75 

Tools, for wood turning 15 

Tools, special 108 

Turner's gouge 16 

Turning a ball , 94 

Turning a binding-post ,. 70 

Turning a chisel-handle 30 

Turning a coupling , 124 

Turning a ferrule 60 

Turning a plug for an oil-hole 68 

Turning a ring 32 

Turning concave and convex surfaces 23-29 

Turning-tools, for wood 15 

Turning, oval 99 

Tumbler, cleaning with 109 

Twist-drill 72 

Underhand cutting with the gouge 113 



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Hammarsten's Physiological Chemistry. (Maudel.) 8vo, 4 00 

Helm's Principles of Mathematical Chemistry. (Morgan). 12mo, 1 50 

Kolbe's Inorganic Chemistry 12mo, 1 50 

Ladd's Quantitative Chemical Analysis 12mo, 1 00 

Landauer's Spectrum Analysis. (Tingle.) Svo, 3 00 

Mandel's Bio-chemical Laboratory 12mo, 1 50 

Mason's Water-supply Svo, 5 00 

" Analysis of Potable Water. {In the press.) 

Miller's Chemical Physics Svo, 2 00 

Mixter's Elementary Text-book of Chemistry 12mo, 1 50 

Morgan's The Theory of Solutions and its Results 12mo, 1 00 

Nichols's Water-supply (Chemical and Sanitary) Svo, 2 50 

O'Brine's Laboratory Guide to Chemical Analysis Svo, 2 00 

Perkins's Qualitative Analysis .- 12mo, 1 00 

Pinner's Organic Chemistry. (Austen.) 12mo, 1 50 

Poole's Calorific Power of Fuels Svo, 3 00 

Ricketts and Russell's Notes on Inorganic Chemistry (Non- 
metallic) « Oblong Svo, morocco, 75 

5 



J-iuddimau*s Incompatibilities in Prescriptions 8vo, $2 00 

Schimpf s Volumetric Analysis 12mo, 2 50 

Spencer's Sugar Manufacturer's Handbook . 12mo, morocco flaps, 2 00 
*' Handbook for Chemists of Beet Sugar House. 

12mo, morocco, 3 00 

Stockbridge's Rocks and Soils 8vo, 2 50 

Troilius's Chemistry of Iron 8vo', 2 00 

"Wells's Inorganic Qualitative Analysis 12mo, 1 50 

" Laboratory Guide in Qualitative Chemical Analysis, 8vo, 1 50 

Wiechmann's Chemical Lecture Notes 12mo, 3 00 

' ' Sugar Analysis , 8vo, 2 50 

Wulling's Inorganic Phar. and Med. Chemistry 12mo, 2 00 

DRAWING. 

Elementary — Geometrical — Topographical. 

Hill's Shades and Shadows and Perspective 8vo, 2 00 

MacCord's Descriptive Geometry 8vo, 3 00 

" Kinematics 8vo, 5 00 

'* Mechanical Drawing 8vo, 4 00 

Mahan's Industrial Draw iug. (Thompson.) 2vols.,8vo, 3 50 

Reed's Topographical Drawing. (II. A.) 4to, 5 00 

Reid's A Course in Mechanical Drawing 8vo. 2 00 

'* Mechanical Drawing and Elementary Machine Design. 

8vo. 

Smith's Topographical Drawing. (Macmillan.) 8vo, 2 50 

Warren's Descriptive Geometry 2 vols., 8vo, 3 50 

" Drafting Instruments 12mo, 1 25 

' ' Free-hand Drawing 1 2mo, 1 00 

" Higher Linear Perspective .8vo, 3 50 

" Linear Perspective 12mo, 1 00 

" Machine Construction 2 vols., 8vo, 7 50 

Plane Problems , 12mo, 125 

*' Primary Geometry 12mo, 75 

" Problems and Theorems 8vo, 2 50 

*' Projection Drawing 12mo, 150 

Shades and Shadows 8vo, 3 00 

Stereotomy— Stone Cutting 8vo, 2 50 

Whelpley's Letter Engraving 12mo, 2 00 

6 



ELECTRICITY AND MAGNETISM. 

Illumination — Batteries — Physics. 

Anthony and Brackett's Text-book of Physics (Magie). ...8vo, $4 00 

Barker's Deep-sea Soundings 8vo, 2 00 

Benjamin's Voltaic Cell 8vo, 3 00 

History of Electricity Svo 3 00 

Cosmic Law of Thermal Repulsion ISmo, 75 

Crehore and Squier's Experiments with a New Polarizing Photo- 
Chronograph Svo, 3 00 

*L>redge's Electric Illuminations. . . .2 vols., 4to, half morocco, 25 00 

Vol. II 4to, 7 50 

Gilbert's De magnete. (Mottelay.) . .Svo, 2 50 

Holman's Precision of Measurements Svo, 2 00 

Michie's Wave Motion Relating to Sound and Light, Svo, 4 00 

Morgan's The Theory of Solutions and its Results 12mo, 1 00 

Niaudet's Electric Batteries. (Fishback.) 12mo, 2 50 

Reagan's Steam and Electrical Locomotives 12mo, 2 00 

Thurston's Stationary Steam Engines for Electric Lighting Pur- 
poses 12mo, 1 50 

Tillman's Heat Svo, 1 50 

ENGINEERING. 

Civil — Mechanical — Sanitary, Etc. 

{See also Bridges, p. 4 ; Hydraulics, p. 8 ; Materials of En- 
gineering, p. 9 ; Mechanics and Machinery, p. 11 ; Steam Engines 
and Boilers, p. 14.) 

Baker's Masonry Construction Svo, 5 00 

" Surveying Instruments 12mo, 3 00 

Black's U. S. Public Works 4to, 5 00 

Brook's Street Railway Location ■. 12mo, morocco, 1 50 

Butts's Engineer's Field-book 12mo, morocco, 2 50 

Byrne's Highway Construction Svo, 7 50 

" Inspection of Materials and Workmanship. 12mo, mor. 

Carpenter's Experimental Engineering Svo, 6 00 

Church's Mechanics of Engineering — Solids and Fluids — Svo, 6 00 

" Notes and Examples in Mechanics Svo, 2 00 

Crandall's Earthwork Tables Svo, 1 50 

' * The Transition Curve 12mo, morocco, 1 50 

7 



* Dredge's Peun. Railroad Construction, etc. . . Folio, half mor., $20 00 

* Drinl^er's Tunnelling 4to, half morocco, 

Eissler's Explosives — Nitroglycerine and Dynamite 8vo, 

Fowler's Coffer-dam Process for Piers . .8vo. 

Gerhard's Sanitary House Inspection , 16mo, 

Godwin's Railroad Engineer's Field-book. 12mo, pocket-bk. form. 

Gore's Elements of Geodesy ..... 8vo, 

Howard's Transition Curve Field-book . . .12mo, morocco flap, 

Howe's Retaining Walls (New Edition.) .12mo, 

Hudson's Excavation Tables. Vol. II o 8vo, 

Hutton's Mechanical Engineering of Power Plants. 8vo, 

Johnson's Materials of Construction 8vo, 

" Stadia Reduction Diagram. .Sheet, 22^ X 28^ inches, 

•' Theory and Practice of Surveying 8vo, 

Kent's Mechanical Engineer's Pocket-book 12mo, morocco,, 

Kiersted's Sewage Disposal 12mo, 

Kirkwood's Lead Pipe for Service Pipe ; 8vo, 

Mahan's Civil Engineering, (Wood.) 8vo, 

Merriman and Brook's Handbook for Surveyors. . . .12mo, mor., 

Merriman's Geodetic Surveying 8vo, 

" Retaining Walls and Masonry Dams 8vo, 

Mosely's Mechanical Engineering. (Mahan.) 8vo, 

Nagle's Manual for Railroad Engineers 12mo, morocco, 

Pattou's Civil Engineering .8vo, 

** Foundations 8vo, 

Rockwell's Roads and Pavements in France .... 12mo, 

Ruffuer's Non-tidal RiverS: 8vo, 

Searles's Field Engineering 12mo, morocco flaps, 

" Railroad Spiral 12mo, morocco flaps, 

Siebert and Biggin's Modern Stone Cutting and Masonry. . .8vo, 

Smith's Cable Tramways 4to, 

" Wire Manufacture and Uses 4to, 

Spalding's Roads and Pavements 12mo, 

" Hydraulic Cement 12mo, 

Thurston's Materials of Construction 8vo, 

* Trautwiue's Civil Engineier's Pocket-book. ..12mo, mor. flaps, 

* ** Cross-section Sheet, 

* ** Excavations and Embankments 8vo, 

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* Truiitwiue's Laying Out Curves 12mo, morocco, $2 50 

Waddell's De Pontibus (A Pocket-book for Bridge Engineers). 

12ino, morocco. 

Wait's Engineering and Archilectural Jurisprudence 8vo, 

Sheep, 

" Law of Field Operation in Engineering, etc 8vo. 

Warren's Stereotomy — Stone Cutting 8vo, 

Webb s Engineering Instruments 12mo, morocco, 

Wegmanu's Construction of Masonry Dams 4to, 

Wellington's Location of Railways. , 8vo, 

Wheeler's Civil Engineering 8vo, 

Wolli's Windmill as a Prime Mover 8vo, 

HYDRAULICS. 

Water-wheels— Windmills— Service Pipe— Drainage, Etc. 
{See also Engineering, p. 6.) 
Bazin's Experiments upon the Contraction of the Liquid Vein 

(Trautwine). 8vo, 2 00 

Bovey's Treatise on Hydraulics. . . , 8vo, 4 00 

Coffin's Graphical Solution of Hydraulic Problems ... 12mo, 2 50 

Ferrel's Treatise on the Winds, Cyclones, and Tornadoes. . .8vo, 4 00 

F'uerte's Water and Public Health 12mo, 1 50 

Ganguillet & Kutter's Flow of Water. (Hering & Trautwine. ). 8vo, 4 00 

Hazen's Filtration of Public Water Supply 8vo, 2 00 

Herschel's 115 Experiments .8vo, 2 00 

Kiersted's Sewage Disposal 12mo, 1 25 

Kirkwood's Lead Pipe for Service Pipe , 8vo, 1 50 

Mason's Water Supply 8vo, 5 00 

Merriman's Treatise on Hydraulics. . 8vo, 4 00 

Nicliols's Water Supply (Chemical and Sanitary) 8vo, 2 50 

Ruffner's Improvement for Non-tidal Rivers 8vo, 1 25 

Wegmann's Water Supply of the City of New York 4to, 10 00 

Weisbach's Hydraulics. (Du Bois.) 8vo, 5 00 

Wilson's Irrigation Engineering 8vo, 4 00 

" Hydraulic and Placer Mining 12mo, 2 00 

Wolff's Windmill as a Prime Mover 8vo, 3 00 

Wood's Theory of Turbines 8vo. 2 50 

MANUFACTURES. 

Aniline — Boilers— Explosives— Iron— Sugar — Watches — 
Woollens, Etc. 

Allen's Tables for Iron Analysis 8vo, 3 00 

Beaumont's Woollen and Worsted Manufacture 12mo, 1 50 

Bolland's Encyclopsedia of Founding Terms 12mo, 3 00 

9 



Bolland's The Iron Founder 12mo, 

Supplement.... 12mo, 

Booth's Clock and Watch Maker's Manual 12ino, 

Bouvier's Handbook on Oil Painting 12mo, 

Eissler's Explosives, Nitroglycerine and Dynamite 8vo, 

Ford's Boiler Making for Boiler Makers 18mo, 

Metcalfe's Cost of Manufactures 8vo, 

Metcalf's Steel— A Manual for Steel Users 12mo, 

Reimann's Aniline Colors. (Crookes.) 8vo, 

* Reisig's Guide to Piece Dyeing 8vo, 

Spencer's Sugar Manufacturer's Handbook. . . .12mo, mor. flap, 
" Handbook for Chemists of Beet Houses. 

12mo, mor. flap, 

Svedelius's Handbook for Charcoal Burners 12mo, 

The Lathe and Its Uses 8vo, 

Thurston's Manual of Steam Boilers 8vo, 

Walke's Lectures on Explosives 8vo, 

West's American Foundry Practice 12mo, 

" Moulder's Text-book 12mo, 

Wiechmann's Sugar Analysis 8vo, 

Woodbury's Fire Protection of Mills 8vo, 

MATERIALS OF ENGINEERING. 

Strength — Elasticity— Resistance, Etc. 
{See also Engineering, p. 6,) 

Baker's Masonry Construction 8vo, 

Beardslee and Kent's Strength of Wrought Iron 8vo, 

Bovey's Strength of Materials 8vo, 

Burr's Elasticity and Resistance of Materials, 8vo, 

Byrne's Highway Construction 8vo, 

Carpenter's Testing Machines and Methods of Testing Materials. 

Church's Mechanics of Engineering — Solids and Fluids 8vo, 

Du Bois's Stresses in Framed Structures 4to, 

Hatfield's Transverse Strains 8vo, 

Johnson's Materials of Construction 8vo, 

Lanza's Applied Mechanics 8vo, 

Merrill's Stones for Building and Decoration 8vo, 

Merriman's Mechanics of Materials .8vo, 

" Strength of Materials 12mo, 

Pattou's Treatise on Foundations 8vo, 

Rockwell's Roads and Pavements in France 12mo, 

Spalding's Roads and Pavements 12mo, 

Thurston's Materials of Construction 8vo, 

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10 00 


5 00 


6 00 


7 50 


5 00 


4 00 


1 00 


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2 00 


5 00 



Thurston's Materials of Engiueering'. 8 vols., 8vo, $8 00 

Vol. I., Nou-metallic Svo, 2 00 

Vol. II., Iron and Steel Svo, 3 50 

Vol. III., Alloys, Brasses, and Bronzes Svo, 2 50 

"Weyraucb's Strength of Iron and Steel. (Du Bois.) Svo, 1 50 

Wood's Resistance of Materials Svo, 2 00 

MATHEMATICS. 

Calculus— Geometry — Trigonometry, Etc. 

Baker's Elliptic Functions Svo, 1 50 

Ballard's Pyramid Problem Svo, 1 50 

Barnard's Pyramid Problem Svo, 1 50 

Bass's Differential Calculus 12mo, 4 00 

Brigg's Plane Analytical Geometry .^ 12mo, 1 00 

Chapman's Theory of Equations 12mo, 1 50 

Chessin's Elements of the Theory of Functions. 

Compton's Logarithmic Computations 12mo, 1 50 

Craig's Linear Differential Equations Svo, 5 00 

Davis's Introduction to the Logic of Algebra Svo, 1 50 

Halsted's Elements of Geometry ...Svo, 175 

" Synthetic Geometry Svo, 1 50 

Johnson's Curve Tracing 12mo, 1 00 

" Differential Equations — Ordinary and Partial Svo, 3 50 

" Integral Calculus 12mo, 1 50 

Unabridged. 

" Least Squares 12mo, 1 50 

Ludlow's Logarithmic and Other Tables. (Bass.) Svo, 2 00 

" Trigonometry with Tables. (Bass.) Svo, 3 00 

Mahan's Descriptive Geometry (Stone Cutting) Svo, 1 50 

Merriman and Woodward's Higher Mathematics Svo, 5 00 

Merriman's Method of Least Squares Svo, 2 00 

Parker's Quadrature of the Circle Svo, 2 50 

Rice and Johnson's Differential and Integral Calculus, 

2 vols, inl, 12mo, 2 50 

Differential Calculus Svo, 3 00 

" Abridgment of Differential Calculus Svo, 150 

Searles's Elements of Geometry Svo, 1 50 

Totten's Metrology Svo, 2 50 

Warren's Descriptive Geometry 2 vols., Svo, 3 50 

" Drafting Instruments 12mo, 125 

" Free-hand Drawing 12mo, 1 00 

" Higher Linear Perspective Svo, 3 50 

" Linear Perspective. 12mo, 1 00 

** Primary Geometry 12mo, 75 

11 



Warren's Plane Problems. 12mo, $1 25 

" Problems and Theorems '..... 8vo, 2 50 

" Piojectiou Drawing 12mo, 1 50 

Wood's Co-ordinate Geometry 8vo, 2 00 

" Trigonometry 12mo, 100 

Woolf's Descriptive Geometry Royal 8vo, 3 00 

MECHANICS- MACHINERY. 

Text-books and Practical Works. 
{See also Engineering, p. 6.) 

Baldwin's Steam Heating for Buildings 12mo, 2 50 

Benjamin's Wrinkles and Recipes 12mo, 2 00 

Carpenter's Testing Macbiues and Methods of Testing 

Materials Svo. 

Chordal's Letters to Mecbauics 12mo, 2 00 

Church's Mechanics of Engineering Svo, 6 00 

" Notes and Examples in Mechanics. Svo, 2 00 

Crehore's Mechanics of the Girder Svo, 5 00 

Cromwell's Belts and Pulleys 12mo, 1 50 

Toothed Gearing 12mo, 150 

Compton's First Lessons in Metal Working 12mo, 1 50 

Dana's Elementary Mechanics 12mo, 1 50 

Dingey's Machinery Pattern Making 12mo, 2 00 

Dredge's Trans. Exhibits Building, World Exposition, 

4to, half morocco, 10 00 

Du Bois's Mechanics. Vol. I., Kinematics Svo, 3 50 

Vol. II.. Statics Svo, 4 00 

Vol III., Kinetics Svo, 3 50 

Fitzgerald's Boston Machinist ISmo, 1 00 

Flather's Dynamometers 12mo, 2 00 

Rope Driving 12mo, 2 00 

Hall's Car Lubrication 12mo, 1 00 

Holly's Saw Filing ISmo, 75 

Johnson's Theoretical Mechanics. An Elementary Treatise. 
{I?i nie press.) 

Jones Machiue Design. Part I., Kinematics, Svo, 1 50 

" " " Part II., Strength and Proportion of 

Machine Parts. 

Lanza's Applied Mechanics Svo, 7 50 

MacCord's Kinematics Svo, 5 00 

Merriman's Mechanics of Materials Svo, 4 00 

Metcalfe's Cost of Manufactures Svo, 5 00 

Michie's Analytical Mechanics Svo, 4 00 

Mosely's Mechanical Engineering. (Mahan.) Svo, 5 00 

12 



Richards's Compressed Air l^mo, $1 50 

Robinson's Principles of Mechanism 8vo, 3 00 

Smith's Press-working of Metals 8vo, H 00 

The Lathe and Its Uses 8vo 6 00 

Thurston's Friction and Lost Work 8vo 3 00 

" The Animal as a Machine , 12mo, 1 00 

"Warren's Machine Construction .2 vols., 8vo, 7 50 

Weisbach's Hydraulics and Hydraulic Motors. (Du Bois.)..8vo, 5 00 
Mechanics of Engineering. Vol. HI., Part I., 

Sec. I. (Klein.) 8vo, 5 00 

Weisbach's Mechanics of Engineering Vol. III., Part I., 

Sec. II (Klein.) 8vo, 5 00 

Weisbach's Steam Engines. (Du Bois.) 8vo, 5 00 

Wood's Analytical Mechanics , 8vo, 3 00 

' * Elementary Mechanics 12mo, 1 25 

" " " Supplement and Key 135 



METALLURGY. 

Iron— Gold— Silver — Alloys, Etc. 

Allen's Tables for Iron Analysis 8vo, 3 00 

Egleston's Gold and Mercury 8vo, 7 50 

" Metallurgy of Silver 8vo, 7 50 

* Kerl's Metallurgy — Copper and Iron 8vo, 15 00 

* " '" Steel. Fuel, etc 8vo, 15 00 

Knnhardt's Ore Dressing in Europe 8vo, 1 50 

Metcalf's Steel— A Manual for Sieel Users 12mo, 2 00 

O'Driscoll's Treatment of Gold Ores 8vo, 2 00 

Thurston's Iron and Steel 8vo, 3 50 

Alloys 8vo, 2 50 

Wilson's Cyanide Processes 12mo, 1 50 

MINERALOGY AND MINING. 

Mine Accidents— Ventilation— Ore Dressing, Etc. 

Barringer's Minerals of Commercial Value oblong morocco, 2 50 

Beard's Ventilation of Mines 12mo, 2 50 

Boyd's Resources of South Western Virginia 8vo, 3 00 

Map of South Western Virginia Pocket-book form, 2 00 

Brush and Penfield's Determinative Mineralogy 8vo, 3 50 

Chester's Catalogue of Minerals 8vo, 1 25 

paper, 50 

•' Dictionary of the Names of Minerals 8vo, 3 00 

Dana's American Localities of Minerals 8vo, 1 00 

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Dana's Descriptive Mineralogy. (E. S.) • • .8vo, half morocco, $12 50 

" Mineralogy and Petrography (J.D.) 12mo, 

" Minerals and How to Study Them. (E. S.).- . • . . .12mo, 

" Text-book of Mineralogy. (E. S.) 8vo, 

*Drinker's Tunnelling, Explosives, Compounds, and Rock Drills. 

4to, half morocco, 

Egleston's Catalogue of Minerals and Synonyms ». . . .8vo, 

Eissler's Explosives — Nitroglycerine and Dynamite 8vo, 

Goodyear 's Coal Mines of the Western Coast 12mo, 

Hussak's Rock- forming Minerals. (Smith.) 8vo, 

Ihlseng's Manual of Mining , . . . 8vo, 

Kunhardt's Ore Dressing in Europe 8vo,. 

O'Driscoll's Treatment of Gold Ores 8vo, 

Roseubusch's Microscopical Physiogrjiphy of Minerals and 

Rocks- (Iddiugs ) , 8vo, 

Sawyer's Accidents in Mines , . .8vo, 

Stockbridge's Rocks and Soils. ..,......,..,..,.. 8vo. 

Walke's Lectures on Explosives 8vo, 

Williams's Lithology , ■ 8vo, 

Wilson's Mine Ventilation l6mo, 

" Hydraulic and Placer Mining. ... 12mo, 

STEAM AND ELECTRICAL ENGINES, BOILERS, Etc. 

Stationaky — Marine— Locomotive — Gas Engines, Etc. 

{See also Engineering, p. 6.) 

Baldwin's Steam Heating for Buildings 12mo, 2 50 

Clerk's Gas Engine -. .12mo, 4 00 

Ford's Boiler Making for Boiler Makers 18mo, 1 00 

Hemen way's Indicator Practice 12mo. 2 00 

Hoadley's Warm-blast Furnace 8vo, 1 50 

Kneasss Practice and Theory of the Injector 8vo, 1 50 

MacCord's Slide Valve 8vo, 2 00 

* Maw's Marine Engines Folio, half morocco, 18 00 

Meyer's Modern Locomotive Construction 4to, 10 00 

Peabody and Miller's Steam Boilers 8vo, 4 00 

Peabody's Tables of Saturated Steam 8vo, 1 00 

" Thermodynamics of the Steam Engine 8vo, 5 00 

" Valve Gears for the Steam Engine 8vo, 2 50 

Pray's Twenty Years with the Indicator Royal 8vo, 2 50 

Pupin and Osterberg's Thermodynamics 12mo, 1 25 

Reagan's Steam and Electrical Locomotives . .12mo, 2 00 

Rontgen's Thermodynamics. (Du Bois.) 8vo, 5 00 

Sinclair's Locomotive Running 12mo, 2 00 

Thurston's Boiler Explosion 12mo, 150 

14 



Thurston's Engine and Boiler Trials 8vo, $5 00 

" Manual of the Steam Engine. Part I., Structure 

and Theory 8vo, 7 50 

" Manual of the Steam Engine. Part II., Design, 

Construction, and Operation 8vo, 7 50 

3 parts, 12 00 

" Philosophy of the Steam Engine 12mo, 75 

*' Keflection on the Motive Power of Heat. (Caruot.) 

12mo, 1 50 

" Stationary Steam Engines 12mo, 1 50 

" Steam-boiler Construction and Operation 8vo, 5 00 

Spangler's Valve Gears 8vo, 2 50 

Trowbridge's Stationary Steam Engines 4to, boards, 2 50 

Weisbach's Steam Engine. (Du Bois.) 8vo, 5 00 

Whitham's Constructive Steam Engineering 8vo, 10 00 

" Steam-engine Design 8vo, 5 00 

Wilson's Steam Boilers. (Flather.) 12mo, 2 50 

Wood's Thermodynamics, Heat Motors, etc 8vo, 4 00 

TABLES, WEIGHTS, AND MEASURES. 

For Actuaries, Chemists, Engineers, Mechanics— Metric 
. Tables, Etc. 

Adriance's Laboratory Calculations 12mo, 1 25 

Allen's Tables for Iron Analysis 8vo, 3 00 

Bixby's Graphical Computing Tables Sheet, 25 

Compton's Logarithms 12mo, 1 50 

Crandall's Railway and Earthwork Tables 8vo, 1 50 

Egleston's Weights and Measures 18mo, 75 

Fisher's Table of Cubic Yards Cardboard, 25 

Hudson's Excavation Tables. Vol.11 8vo, 100 

Johnson's Stadia and Earthwork Tables 8vo, 1 25 

Ludlow's Logarithmic and Other Tables. (Bass.) 12mo, 2 00 

Thurston's Conversion Tables 8vo, 1 00 

Totten's Metrology 8vo, 2 50 

VENTILATION. 

Steam Heating — House Inspection — Mine Ventilation. 

Baldwin's Steam Heating 12mo. 2 50 

Beard's Ventilation of Mines 12mo, 2 50 

Carpenter's Heating and Ventilating of Buildings 8vo, 3 00 

Gerhard's Sanitary House Inspection Square 16mo, 1 00 

Mott's The Air We Breathe, and Ventilation 16mo, 1 00 

Reid's Ventilation of American Dwellings 12mo, 1 50 

Wilson's Mine Ventilation , 16mo, 1 25 

15 



MISCELLANEOUS PUBLICATIONS. 

Alcott's Gems, Sentiment, Language Gilt edges, $5 00 

Bailey's The New Tale of a Tub 8vo, 75 

Ballard's Solution of the Pyramid Problem 8vo, 1 50 

Barnard's The Metrological System of the Great Pyramid. .8vo, 1 50 

Davis's Elements of Law Svo, 2 00 

Emmon's Geological Guide-book of the Rocky Mountains. .Svo, 1 50 

Ferrel's Treatise on the Winds Svo, 4 00 

Haines's Addresses Delivered before'the Am. Ry. Assn. ..12mo. 2 50 

Mott's The Fallacy of the Present Theory of Sound . . Sq. 16mo, 1 00 

Perkins's Cornell University Oblong 4to, 1 50 

Ricketts's Histor)^ of Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute Svo, 3 00 

Rotherham's The New Testament Criticall}" Emphasized. 

12mo, 1 50 
" The Emphasized New Test. A new translation. 

Large Svo, 2 00 

Totten's An Important Question in Metrology Svo, 2 50 

Whitehouse's Lake Mceris Paper, 25 

* Wiley's Yosemite, Alaska, and Yellowstone 4to, 3 00 

HEBREW AND CHALDEE TEXT=BOOKS. 

For Schools and Theological Seminaries. 

Gesenius's Hebrew and Chaldee Lexicon to Old Testament. 

(Tregelles.) Small 4to, half morocco, 5 00 

Green's Elementary Hebrew Grammar. 12mo, 1 25 

'• - Grammar of the Hebrew Language (New Edition). Svo, 3 00 

Hebrew Chrestomathy Svo, 2 00 

Letteris's Hebrew Bible (Massoretic Notes in English). 

SvO; arabesque, 2 25 
Luzzato's Grammar of the Biblical Chaldaic Language and the 

Talmud Babli Idioms 12mo, 1 50 

MEDICAL. 

Bull's Maternal Management in Health and Disease 12mo, 1 00 

Hammarsteu's Physiological Chemistry. (Mandel.) Svo, 4 00 

Mott's Composition, Digestibility, and Nutritive Value of Food. 

Large mounted chart, 1 25 

Ruddiman's Incompatibilities in Prescriptions Svo, 2 00 

Steel's Treatise on the Diseases of the Ox Svo, 6 00 

Treatise on the Diseases of the Dog Svo, 3 50 

WoodhuU's Military Hygiene 12mo, 1 50 

Worcester's Small Hospitals — Establishment and Maintenance, 
including Atkinson's Suggestions for Hospital Archi- 
tecture 12mo, 1 25 

16 



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